Look from the Ermanno Scervino show
26 Jun. 2013
Review: Milan Menswear Shows SS2014
A multifaceted male
Despite economic difficulties and uncertainties Milan Fashion Week, 22nd -25th June 2013, closed its doors positively. International and Italian insiders showed satisfaction for the creative spirit and the top quality that characterised the general offer of the collections.
Prada who opted for wider fits, and the newly redesigned Ermenegildo Zegna and Z Zegna redesigned by Stefano Pilati that opted for 1950's silhouettes. Z Zegna also reinvented comfy pyjamas with techno materials and new optics. Leather is a rediscovered protagonist in men's collections - often in white and light colours, but also in black and browns and sometimes also used for t-shirts (Diesel Black Gold, Gucci, Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani, Etro, Ermanno Scervino).
A new romantic with an edge
Prints dominate: floral (Gucci, Dirk Bikkembergs), abstract (Calvin Klein opted for Magritte-like cloudy skies), souvenir-like (Dolce & Gabbana reproduced embroidered elements of Ancient Rome), or even with a Southern American heroic attitude (à-la-Zorro, as seen throughout Etro's whole show).
Sporty attitudes and denim come back
Diesel Black Gold outfit
Denim is also back in men’s wardrobes. Ermanno Scervino has reinterpreted the light blue chambray shirt with Swarovski pockets and cuffs and paired this with lightweight floral scarves. Lacquered-leather-effect denim, blue denim, or military effect denim combined with light blue denim chinos, short, lightweight, boxy jackets (Giorgio Armani), tuxedo jackets, leather sleeved vests (DSquared), or reinvented with new laser treatments and prints, as seen at Diesel Black Gold, is on trend.
In love with geometry; mixing together different checks in black and sand or black and white. In love with white, black and grey, and in love with colour, in particular light blues and all shades of orange (Neil Barrett, Marni, Andrea Pompilio, Vivienne Westwood, Iceberg, John Richmond, Rocco Barocco, Ermanno Scervino, Etro). This is the modern man for S/S 2014.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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