Etro s/s 2012
23 Jun. 2011
MILAN MENSWEAR SHOWS FOCUS ON INNOVATION AND INDIVIDUALISM
Milan Menswear Fashion Week, held between June 18-21, has presented s/s 2012 trends by focusing on a high research in innovative materials, hyped light-weight products and functionality, new garment constructions and techniques often mixed with a sporty appeal on the one side and music addiction on the other. Grey and blue were hot in most different shades and materials. Lively colors were presented by many brands, though yellow was most dominating, both as total looks or as an energetic accent. The motto for next season could be "Come as you are" since much stress was put on individualism. Each man can actually choose from most different ideas for reorganizing their wardrobe and catch the attention of the world around him as he likes best.THE TRAVELER
Trussardi s/s 2012
Travelling seems to be a topic that continues to influence menswear. As seen at Pitti Uomo (see our previous reportage)
, Italian designer brands like to focus on the idea to escape everyday routine. The Etro show recreated the dreamy atmosphere of being near the sea breathing the light wind breeze and meet country gentlemen, wearing straw hats and silk blue and white printed bombers and blazers, paisley-printed windbreakers with blazers and hot pants. Scervino's long linen blue or light blue shirts provide a sense of modern relaxedness, while some cotton shirts are decorated with prints of passport stamps. Gazzarrini, newly redesigned by Marco Ciampalini, presented reinvented high-waist kimono-inspired trousers and sleeveless shirts. Trussardi, redesigned by Umit Benan, showed white linen overalls, jeans and travel jackets worn by models who carried their super luxury trolleys and hand luggage.THE SPORTY GUY
Moncler s/s 2012
Sport continues to inspire research and innovation for menswear and fashion, be it more high-tech and functional as Calvin Klein Collection's tank tops and wide jogging pants in white, black and water-green, or with items covered with scales or small rubber squared. Coated denim trousers and shirts stood out for their new visual aspect. Also high-tech-minded was the newest Moncler ergonomic apparel collection inspired by fencing. Bikkembergs showed that it is ready for swimming with most innovated bathing suits, bathrobes and jersey suits. Prada's new men have transformed themselves into floral funky caddies and stylish golf players who wore printed bombers with rock-minded studded printed and colorful shirts. Some of Gucci's outer jackets reminded of horse-riding jackets with functional details shown on the outer side of the garment rather than on the inner side.THE MUSIC ADDICT
John Richmond s/s 2012
Music was everywhere. Moschino and Costume National loved rockabilly must-haves. Moschino showed its collection in a fun atmosphere together with German band The Baseballs playing live. Costume National offered ‘50s-inspired modern laser-cut and thermo-sealed pieces in black and white often highlighted by some red shades. Bob Marley prints decorated some of John Richmond's t-shirts and jackets, often mixed with yellow and brown tones. John Varvatos' modern rockers wore lightweight long shirts and parkas in innovative techno-materials. Roberto Cavalli presented striped '70s-inspired trousers and jackets. Most popular with music addicts are also innovative leather items. Scervino offered creased brown leather shirt-jackets and perfectos, while Richmond's new leather blousons and blazers showed delicate floral motives and arabesques. Other shirts and jackets were created by assembling a carved net of leather with a transparent, superlight, perforated silicon strata.THE NEW DANDY
Ermanno Scervino s/s 2012
Never missing from a man's essential wardrobe were modern dandy outfits and pieces such as superlight and often short-sleeved knitwear and jackets - as seen at Emporio Armani and Iceberg in a never-ending offer of grey hues and wrinkled aspects. Ermenegildo Zegna opted for lucid surface pastel color suits, while Z Zegna offered belted wide jackets and trousers - not exactly aimed for suiting everybody. Gucci chose micro-check motives - cleaner for the day and more evident and often lucid for night time. The evening jacket was often reinvented, thanks to special details such as, for instance, colorful lapels as seen at Coveri, or with embroideries and rich decors as presented by Cavalli.
Furthermore, reinvented op-art and geometries need to be mentioned. Burberry reinvented geometric decors applied onto t-shirts and knitwear. Scervino played with macro chevron motives and jackets made of linen and other natural fibers plus metal yarns. Giorgio Armani's prints played with grey and white checks and zig-zag motives, while Ports 1961, just debuting, showed transparent silk shirts and lightweight cotton sweaters worn with rounded stripes often inspired by Constantin Brancusi sculptures.
Maria Cristina Pavarini