Reality Check: the new Who’s Who is a mature yearbook of fashion and people who make fashion happen…

“Our new Who’s Who spotlights individuals and brands that offered innovation, truly creative and fresh contributions to genuine design, authentic and sustainable manufacturing and unique presentations in 2009.”

We started the Who’s Who in the ’80s in the USA as a listing of brand names, sportswear companies and their contact details and published it in the middle of each year. Now, after three years of metamorphosis, here it is in a brand new form: a chronicle and roundup of the past 12 months in the fashion world. Our new Who’s Who is a mature yearbook of fashion and people who make fashion happen, and it spotlights individuals and brands that offered innovation, truly creative and fresh contributions to genuine design, authentic and sustainable manufacturing and unique presentations in 2009. In a year like this I am especially happy to present this new concept of one of our most widely read and prestigious publications. Personally being hit hard by the loss of my wife to cancer and professionally facing – together with all my colleagues in the major publishing houses around the world – the most serious identity challenges in print media I have ever seen has made 2009 one of my least favorite years ever. And not to strain the word “crisis” once more but just referring to the numerous well known and respected fashion enterprises such as Japan’s Yohji Yamamoto, Italy’s IT Group or Germany’s Escada for whom 2009 was a disaster doesn’t contribute to this year’s reputation either. However, to look close-up at all the brave souls who really worked hard and achieved a lot in the last 12 months, those who made a huge step ahead or even established themselves as relevant newcomers and future strong players in their segments, finds me making my peace with 2009. I can even say that thanks to this year’s experience I am an even stronger believer that unfavorable economic conditions set free extra creative power and inventor’s skills. Just look at this year’s SIFA (Sportswear International Fashion Award, p. 166 ff) winners J Brand (Best Denim) or Best Newcomer Current/Elliott, for instance. These two LA-based companies reversed all badmouthing that West Coast creativity had peaked and took self-confident approaches in a saturated denim market. And soon they were seen on the shelves of all innovative retailers from Hawaii to the Ural. Their secret of success? Being different and trusting their unique and authentic propositions. In general, I think there is an Obamaesque kind of seriousness going through all segments of the market. Goodbye to fake and glitter, never-ending parties and trashy celebrations. (Sorry, Miss Hilton!) Believing in something is considered cool and cynicism and playing around with human values and emotions have tentatively lost their excitement. The best example: SI’s “Truth Issue” of May/June 2009 was our most recognized one of the whole year. Industry insiders such as Robert Nand, Michael Silver or Paolo Ruffato made their point by demanding more surprise and astonishment in a “market of no illusions”. An ongoing renovation of product is key. Excitement and technology at the point of sale is vital. And it takes more human commitment than ever to convince a bored and cautious consumer to open his stingy purse. To be successful brands – or better yet, their creators and “presenters” – must be considered honest, authentic and entirely credible. I’m not saying that everybody on the following pages fulfils these criteria one hundred percent – there are some who were as successful as hell this year, although they wanted only to be first among the second. That said, the vast majority of names featured in this 2009 edition are members of that hard-boiled species of designers, business people and fashion characters who strived against the constant stream of bad news and made their winning way despite it. So please turn the page and enjoy our special selection of real people who made fashion happen in 2009. But don’t forget: like every year Sportswear International readers and a jury of some of the most innovative retailers and buyers from around the world have awarded SIFAs to the most important brands of the year in nine categories. Winners were chosen for their vision, design, brand strength and potential. Meet the SIFA winners in the second half of the book. And please enjoy the photo gallery of these highly creative people!

Klaus N. Hang
Editor & Publisher