Roberto Cavalli
Roberto Cavalli
 

03 Mar. 2011

SHOW REPORT: MILAN FASHION WEEK

Sci-Fi inspiration, modern fur and biker styles, a lot of black, but also color statements, were presented at the successful edition of Milan Fashion Week which ended March 1. The event was mostly happening within the city center, apart from a few designers' shows and other shows that were hosted inside a new huge structure located at the city's main square, Duomo Square.

“With this edition, Milan Fashion Week has confirmed the success of its new course that already started in September 2010,” commented Mario Boselli, President of Camera della Moda Italiana (Italian fashion chamber). “Our seven-day-calendar of events and the new location of Piazza Duomo were appreciated by everyone. Designers gave their best and the city reacted with great enthusiasm creating a great and one of most dynamic editions we ever organized. Some of the maisons that showed inside the Piazza Duomo have already asked to show again at this location during the next September edition. This had never happened before!"

Although official figures are not available since only designers can provide the actual number of visitors and buyers, Boselli could only indicate a few data such as the presence of 2,000 journalists from over 40 countries and about 15,000 of insiders and buyers. "In terms of the general atmosphere, I noticed that true top insiders were around for the shows," he commented. “Most of them came from Europe, plus -strongly increasing- were many others from the Far East."

Most collections that presented the f/w 2011/2012 trends, resembled a late '70s spirit, combined with Sci-Fi inspiration à la ‘Blade Runner’, showing leather garments, futuristic biker jackets and boots, fluffy fur coats, vests or short and tight-to-the-body jackets made out of real and precious materials or reinvented in wool with innovative knitwear techniques, often worn with pencil skirts or tight pants or leggings.

Milan's new glam
Milan
Metallic hues and lurex touches created a generally black and grey metropolitan atmosphere where women can still bring some sense of youth, beauty and human warmth, no matter if one might think back of replicant, as Ridley Scott's famous cult movie. Amongst collections that were inspired by this mood the most were collections like C'N'C. Its deconstructed grey and black biker jackets and redesigned duffle coats mixed dark hues with orange, red, purple and bordeaux highlights. Likewise, Emporio Armani, Trussardi, Baldinini, Dondup, and Roberto Cavalli offered biker footwear and jacket styles that were refreshed by a modern glam inspiration. Ferrè opted for a chic sleek and fluid white evening dresses combined with silver metallic inserts for night time, while presenting white coats completed by origami-like collars for day time. Etro mixed folk inspiration motives and earth and mustard hues with silver and lucid coatings, whereas Marni showed lurex optic motive dresses in combination with laser cut boxy black leather coats.

Moreover, fur could be spotted everywhere. Mongolia, fox, astrakan and other precious “flocks" will be the must-have for any modern woman's wardrobe as seen on Gucci's catwalk in superfancy hues like petrol blue, emerald green or yelllow and purple in addition to ‘1940s meet 1970s’-inspired total looks with high-waist wide trousers, wide-brim hats, and tight-to-the-body short fur jackets. Also crazy about fur were John Richmond, Ermanno Scervino, and Fendi. Furthermore, eco-friendly fur made an impact, as the knitwear variants presented by Byblos, Ermanno Scervino and Iceberg, often mixing lurex with wool.

Although dark hues seemed to be generally preferred by designers – for instance Emporio Armani focused on a totally black collection - many maisons also opted for full color outfits - as flashy hues presented by Blumarine, Giorgio Armani’s flesh pink total looks, or as some of Rocco Barocco's outfits were inspired by the Italian flag in green, white and red, celebrating Italy's 150th anniversary of unification.

Milan Fashion Week once again proved that the Italian fashion world is definitely vibrant, and can offer great inspiration, a high source of research and beauty to the world.
Maria Cristina Pavarini

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