Etro s/s 2012
27 Sep. 2011
SHOW REPORT: MILAN FASHION WEEK ENDS WITH GOOD RESULTSMilan Fashion Week that started Sep. 21, 2011, has just closed its doors today registe ring positive results despite some difficulties it was facing prior to the show. About ten days before Fashion Week started, Milan city's new administration cancelled the permission to hold shows under the historic Loggia dei Mercanti. The matter was solved in the very last moment by placing a tent aside of the Duomo.
Furthermore, missing funds -that had previously been promised by the former city management but were unexpectedly cancelled by the new one- make the situation more complicated in form of some revolution that might happen soon within the international fashion week calendar. During the last edition of New York Fashion Week, the management had expressed the desire to postpone its future editions of the shows -consequently overlapping with Milan- without discussing anything with other fashion metropolises. "By now we have asked our associates what they feel could be the best thing to do," commented Mario Boselli, President of the Italian Fashion Chamber. “We might either keep our present dates, anticipate the event to July or to early September. According to our associates' opinions we will then speak with the US Fashion Week organization."
Despite the complicated situation, Boselli was satisfied with the course of the show: "In spite of present financial difficulties, there was great optimism around. The shows recalled great attention and the collections presented offered both a high level of creative ideas and quality."
Trendwise, bright colors and lively prints were spotted everywhere, often mixed with bon-ton feminine knee-length dresses. Elegance and balance seem to be a must for s/s 2012, even if every designer brought in his or her own personal twist and interpretation.
Color therapy is the cure fashionistas will turn to for the season to come. Especially crazy yellow hues - from acid yellow to soft vanilla (Marni, Normaluisa), optimistic greens - from emerald to grass green through oily blue-greens (Antonio Marras, Max Mara, Ermanno Scervino, Krizia, Bottega Veneta) including pastels (Versace and Versus) will be hot. Squeaky color mixes characterized C'N'C Costume national mixing color blocks of pastel pink with flesh hues. Essential monochrome - from white to purple - constructed evening dresses characterized the new Ferré collection. Leather panels, single shoulder or asymmetric dresses were often completed with metallic belts or straps.
An injection of liveliness and energy will be added to any outfit if the print is bold, impressive and unique. Etro rediscovered the age of jazz redesigning its paisley motives through the lense of futurism and inventing sophisticated trompe-l'oeil effects. D&G (that presented its collection for the last season - see our report) rediscovered scarf prints, while Dolce & Gabbana played with Mediterranean macro fruit and vegetable motives. Marni redesigns abstracts prints by adding crystals and plastic flowers on the surface of its dresses and skirts, often refined with a flesh transparent organza underskirt hanging down from the hem. Prada chose geometrical motives and stylized flames and cars reinventing ‘50s’ skirts and boxy jackets. On its tops Iceberg reproduced the stylized face of Valentina, an Italian sexy-chic comic woman character.
Gold, black and white were hot for Gucci's 1920s’ inspired evening dresses, as Roberto Cavalli's macro-sequinned dresses. Emporio Armani played with black dresses hemmed with optical white - and vice versa - for very chic bon-ton effects.
Less sportswear or denim was seen for the new season apart from a few designers. Ermanno Scervino redesigned the parachute jacket into a short and tight-to-the-body jacket often completed with drawstrings. Bottega Veneta presented denim trousers with contrasting geometric patches and abrasions. Philipp Plein reinvented his leather jackets with flaming red and lots of studs. Last but not least, Just Cavalli presented metallic effect denim jeans and hot pants with colorful shirts.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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