Stockholm Fashion Week
Stockholm Fashion Week
 

06 Feb. 2012

SHOW REPORT: MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK STOCKHOLM

Kicking off on a Monday, January 30, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm was ushered in by Noomi Rapace of Girl With the Dragon Tattoo fame. Since its conception in 2005, the event has expanded considerably and the fall/winter 12-13 edition saw about 30 contenders taking part, including Filippa K, Rodebjer, Tiger of Sweden, J.Lindeberg, Whyred, Cheap Monday, Carin Wester and V Avenue Shoe Repair. In addition, mainstream brands such as Busnel, Lexington and Boomerang found their way in, giving the event a more commercial and inclusive flavor.

One of the most compelling offerings was that of Whyred. Taking a more rustic route than usual, the label based its fall collection on the mystery of the forest. Not surprisingly, earthy tones ruled, with the exception of the occasional shot of ruby, navy and bone white. Floor skimming dresses and skirts in diaphanous materials appeared refreshingly bohemian and slouchy knitwear added further to the offbeat air. Subtly shrunken jackets were among the most charming entries on the men’s front.

Filippa K Man’s take on the new season, meanwhile, was minimalistic with a hint of sporty functionality – a silhouette Swedish designers do remarkably well. To soften the starkness of the affair, a smattering of ethnic-style knits were added for balance and warmth.

Cheap Monday departed dramatically from last season’s upbeat and colorful collection, and focused instead on grungy layering with a nod towards activewear and martial arts. The color palette was largely monochrome, with the exception of wine and russet. Denim looks were varied in kind; jeans came in wide, straight cuts with paper-bag waistlines, with skinnier varieties featured as well.

Another highlight of the week was the showing of fashion school Beckman’s second year students. They sent out a handful of outfits each, based on multiple textile techniques and an intriguing juxtaposition of materials. The students forming part of the line-up were Alina Brane, Amandah Andersson, Ebba Camitz, Emmy Andersson, Fiffi Wilton, Isabel Elfast, Lamija Suljevic, Lina Michal, Lisa Laurell Amandonico, Per Götesson, Rikard Wahl, and Marianne Høst.
Emma Holmqvist

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