Look from the Ermanno Scervino show
Look from the Ermanno Scervino show
 

26 Jun. 2013

Review: Milan Menswear Shows SS2014


A multifaceted male

Despite economic difficulties and uncertainties Milan Fashion Week, 22nd -25th June 2013, closed its doors positively. International and Italian insiders showed satisfaction for the creative spirit and the top quality that characterised the general offer of the collections.

Gallery: More pictures from the Milan Menswear Shows
In term of trends many felt that colours seemed more sombre than usual Spring/Summer collections. Greys, browns and light blues actually dominated the shows. According to buyers the reason for this is that most brands are addressing themselves to the Chinese consumer whose taste opts for more classic and sober - and often darker - hues. Jackets dominated the men’s collections and silhouettes continue to be generally slim, apart from Prada who opted for wider fits, and the newly redesigned Ermenegildo Zegna and Z Zegna redesigned by Stefano Pilati that opted for 1950's silhouettes. Z Zegna also reinvented comfy pyjamas with techno materials and new optics. Leather is a rediscovered protagonist in men's collections - often in white and light colours, but also in black and browns and sometimes also used for t-shirts (Diesel Black Gold, Gucci, Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani, Etro, Ermanno Scervino).

A new romantic with an edge

Prints dominate: floral (Gucci, Dirk Bikkembergs), abstract (Calvin Klein opted for Magritte-like cloudy skies), souvenir-like (Dolce & Gabbana reproduced embroidered elements of Ancient Rome), or even with a Southern American heroic attitude (à-la-Zorro, as seen throughout Etro's whole show).

Sporty attitudes and denim come back

Diesel Black Gold outfit
Diesel Black Gold outfit
The sporty man with an attitude is back. Lightweight parkas, anoraks, blousons, leather blazers and t-shirts are hot (Gucci, Costume National, Jet Set, Marni), whereas Moncler have opted for the typical elements of cricket combined with a modern attitude.
Denim is also back in men’s wardrobes. Ermanno Scervino has reinterpreted the light blue chambray shirt with Swarovski pockets and cuffs and paired this with lightweight floral scarves. Lacquered-leather-effect denim, blue denim, or military effect denim combined with light blue denim chinos, short, lightweight, boxy jackets (Giorgio Armani), tuxedo jackets, leather sleeved vests (DSquared), or reinvented with new laser treatments and prints, as seen at Diesel Black Gold, is on trend.

Modern optics

In love with geometry; mixing together different checks in black and sand or black and white. In love with white, black and grey, and in love with colour, in particular light blues and all shades of orange (Neil Barrett, Marni, Andrea Pompilio, Vivienne Westwood, Iceberg, John Richmond, Rocco Barocco, Ermanno Scervino, Etro). This is the modern man for S/S 2014.

Maria Cristina Pavarini

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