Diesel Black Gold
27 Jun. 2012
REVIEW: MILAN MENSWEAR SHOWSThe last edition of Milan Menswear Week, which took place June 23-26, was characterized by hyped up colors and light-play among mixed and matched opposites. Italian and international designers presented their trends for spring/summer 2013, which featured loads of colors and metallic effects as well as micro-designs, prints and lace inserts plus hip-hop-inspired black and white contrasts and translucent effects.
A down-to-earth, realistic man who still manages to find a chic, cool approach to life and work was the image that viewers were left with after many of the shows. Dolce & Gabbana invited native Sicilian men of various ages to model simple, stylish open collar white shirts paired with dark blazers and trousers as well as silk shirts printed with traditional theatre puppets known as the “Pupi Siciliani.” Prada presented a collection that could easily be worn by both men and women made up of clean-cut, geometric polos, jackets, trousers and trenches. Other brands also presented styles that could easily be worn by both sexes, as seen at Ports 1961, for example, which played with extravagant colors, prints and silky surfaces.
Going the other way, many designers brought a big splash of color to the runways. Men's suits mixed with strong colors, as well as single items and accessories, were presented by Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, Iceberg, Daks, Enrico Coveri and Ports 1916. Etro embellished with various paisley prints and Trussardi opted for a garden theme using greens, yellows and earth tones. Metallic hues were another trend as seen in Burberry’s trenches, bags and bi-color bombers. Frankie Morello and Philip Plein also went metallic with a hip-hop vibe made up of sporty shorts, tank tops and a skateboarding attitude. The rap world also came through at John Richmond, who presented perforated leather jackets, spray-effect silk shirts and models in gold chains adorned with Mercedes-Benz stars.
The letter "B" is big for spring/summer 2013. Blazers, bermudas and bombers, worn either alone or together, are shaping up to be next season’s must-haves. Bombers were presented at every show, either in metallic leathers (Burberry), silks with floral and geometric prints (Ermenegildo Zegna, Burberry and Gucci), or in semi-transparent materials (Frankie Morello and Moncler Gamme Blue). Calvin Klein opted for semitransparent lightweight padded bombers going for a relaxed sporty-chic attitude. Blazers remain a go-to for men and everyone from Diesel Black Gold to Giorgio and Emporio Armani displayed them with bermudas and shorts, often reinterpreting the pieces in creased linens and natural fiber fabrics. DSquared also presented its take on the bermuda/blazer mix, introducing neoprene black tuxedo jackets with rubberized lucid lapels worn with black bermudas, leather miniskirts on top of shorts or with a black wrap skirt hemmed with metal chains.
Some delicacy also came in for spring. Micro-designs were hot at Ermenegildo Zegna and Burberry, who showed full suits and trousers worn with traditional men's jackets covered in floral prints. Liberty-inspired flower motifs characterized polos, shirts and bombers at Gucci. Diesel Black Gold opted for leather jackets and blazers with embroidered flower patterns across shoulders and details like Sangallo lace variants for shirts and tank tops and black and white essentials – another popular color combination for next summer.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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