Etro f/w 2011/12
22 Jan. 2011
MILAN SHOWS PERSONALITYThe recent edition of Milan’s menswear shows held between January 15-19, 2011, presented almost 90 men's apparel collections, about 40 catwalk shows, over 30 presentations and various other events all of which focused on f/w 2011/2012.
Modern men's wardrobes are always more heterogenous and varied and escape one-way definitions. "I'm most interested in personalities rather than in trends," comments US designer John Varvatos presenting multi-layered soft silhouettes he defines as ‘sophisticatedly rustic’. Likewise, Turkish designer Umit Benan presented a mix of rigorous '80s Wall Street-inspired suits and more eccentric freak outfits focusing on the importance of each wearer's own character. “There's more beyond clothes. It is personality."
A bunch of trends are characterizing the upcoming men's winter season such as dominant hues including greys (Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Iceberg, Missoni), whites (Pignatelli, Burberry), yellows and oranges, bright color splashes (Burberry, Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana) and lurex hints (Prada), as well as touches of deep red (Gucci, Emporio Armani, John Varvatos, Ermenegildo Zegna).
Coats are back, either slim, long and with less evident shoulders than in the past, or 3/4 long and boxy (Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Ferragamo), often worn with trousers tighter at the ankle and wider around the hips.
Knitwear is still a must-have for many collections – either hairy furs or felted knit jackets or coats - often with unfinished or laser-cut edges (Burberry, Ermanno Scervino, Gucci). Complementing knitwear are mutton long vests, to be worn as a multi-layer look, often belted, though only fitting the superslim (John Varvatos).
Menswear classics are back with a twist. Etro focuses on reintepreting Bavarian-style looks with cow leather belted coats, Tyrol-style thick wool jackets often completed by golden buttons, pastoral flowery shirts and tuxedos with fur collar details. Iceberg reinvents houndstooth, Prince of Wales, and Gaucho ‘clan’ stripes with felted wools and innovative surface effects. Z Zegna launches its ‘futuristic jacket’, in wool, or leather, lined with flannell and neoprene, are laser-sealed and carry velcro-closures only. Moncler offers an overall collection inspired by horse-riding and hunting classic items - most of which down-padded and mixing different check patterns.
Among special effects, Ermenegildo Zegna chose a unique way for presenting their fashion show. Thanks to the ‘Live-D’ special filming technique, movie director and visual consultant "Avatar" James Lima, directed a real and a virtual fashion show almost simoultaneously letting guests feel both part of the real show as well as the initiated movie-like one.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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