Etro menswear collection
24 Jan. 2012
MILAN MENSWEAR SHOWS GLOW IN THE DARKMilan Menswear Week unveiled a variety of fall/winter 2012/13 inspiration and styles - dark hues, neon brights and true British tailoring mixed in with sportiness, geometric knits and lots of leather.
Milan's four days of menswear shows managed to pack in a lot of looks in not a lot of time. Brit inspiration, reinvented uniforms, super tight fits, fancy knitwear and throwbacks to the 1950s and 1970s gave more substance than show, despite questionable wearability.
Super-tight and short were words that seemed to embody Burberry's quilted above-the-waist cropped outerwear, horizontally macro-striped down-jackets and Barbour-like blousons. Ermenegildo Zegna and Z Zegna also focused on very tight suits, often short and very skinny.
The British spirit pervaded many catwalk shows: John Richmond mixed rock'n'roll with Savile Row inspiration, Ermanno Scervino's mohair argyle pullovers were matched with fake-fur eskimo linings. Burberry showed a reimagined version of the duffle coat - a must for many designers this season - salt and pepper wool outfits and mosaic-like geometric-patterned wool pullovers. Daniele Alessandrini also presented jacquard knitted jackets.
Knitwear dominated the shows through jumpers, pullovers or coats. Emporio Armani offered wider and softer styles in knitted tops and cloaks often worn with wide hats. Giorgio Armani, on the other hand, opted for Alpine-style knitted items with jacquard motifs that gave a hand-painted appearance.
Flashes of light brought liveliness to an onslaught of gray outfits. Dolce & Gabbana went for a baroque interpretation of menswear with golden appliques on jackets and gold studs on biker boots. Gucci opted for dandy-like rose-jacquard suits in black and bordeaux. Arfango's silver surface shoes added light to dark winter evenings. Iceberg presented coated lucid surfaces for outerwear. Flesh tones and alligator trousers, blazers and details were hot at Calvin Klein, characterized by clean, no frill silhouettes.
Diesel Black Gold, debuting for the first time within Milan Mens Fashion Week, showed velvet looks and pinstriped trousers paired with leather jackets. Velvet was presented by designers such as Burberry, Cavalli and Richmond, among others.
Marni showed blazers with a 1950s inspiration, amped up by high-tech materials and a cool spirit with knitted collars and borders, often mixing wool cloth blazers with nylon revers and details and a focus on rounded silhouette jackets and bright colors. Moncler reinvented the world of retro car racing with precious cashmeres and cutting edge materials as well as with the interplay between patterns, mixed motifs and asymmetries. Westwood showed models with iced beards and hair and experimented with tartan mix outfits and other winter tricks such as patchwork items in mutton and wool fabrics.
Etro went the other way with bright color mixes, often employing feathers for hats, vests and blazers with details like lapels reminiscent of the modern Icarus in turquoise, orange and brown shades. Neon colors and animal prints added spark to Roberto Cavalli's whole fall/winter 2012/13 offering with electric blue outerwear and coral pink leather and knits.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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