Marni s/s 2011
Marni s/s 2011
 

04 Oct. 2010

MILAN FASHION WEEK TAKES NEW COURSE

Milan Fashion Week ended with a strong '70 nostalgia, a hype on bold colors, prints and sculpted looks, making their statement for s/s 2011. Held Sep. 22-28, the Milan catwalk shows have registered some significant results thanks to its brand new course. With its 78 shows and over 100 presentations in showrooms, it recalled over 15,000 buyers, a higher percentage from China and Far East, and 1,200 journalists from 40 countries. Also, more American visitors to the show were in town as generally more people per company or buyers’ group were around compared to previous editons.

The new calendar included top designer catwalk shows spread through the whole week, as a counterproposal to the former, more concentrated, schedule warmly supported by Anna Wintour during previous editions. Aim of the new calendar and new organization of the show is to promote a wider number of brands tied to the Italian textile and apparel industry that only contributes 20% to Milan’s gross domestic product.

A new central temporary home, press office and catwalk shows were located inside some gorgeous, historical buildings a few steps from the Duomo Square - also involved in Milan's new deal, hosting the C'N'C show and nighttime events.

Despite such positive intentions and prestigious locations, top designers continued to show inside their own headquarters located throughout the city. For the next edition though, which will be the men's fashion week in January, also supported by Milan city organization, better results are to be expected.

Trendwise, color will play a significant role in s/s 2011. Plain silhouettes and bold hues are a must for Gucci with vibrant blues, orange and emerald greens. Max Mara opts for fluo yellows. Orange, pink and purple rule for Jil Sander. Pink and mustard are Aigner's favorites. Giorgio Armani opts for a total blue collection from head to toe and for every hour of the day. He offers various shades of blue whether it be blue leather blazers and trousers for the day or crystallized chiffon dresses for the night. Ferragamo loves the color blue, too, though for nighttime only with romantic gipsy silk gowns and shirts.

3D-sculpted new geometrics characterize Krizia's collection, inspired by “archistar" Zaha Hadid's design, in metal green and blue shades. Leather microstraps and Aztech-style luxury dresses dominate dresses at Gucci, while Ferré creates entire dresses with intertwined leather strings. Scervino shows origami-like cotton popeline gowns and trenches. Versace opts for geometric below-the-knee dresses with plastic-covered slits. Matthew Williamson's new capsule collection for Bulgari offers geometric fluo color and abstract printed bags. Marni reinvents surf and scuba outfits with eclectic mixes of printed patterns, colorful nets, perforated leather, sequinned surface and technical edgings.

Baroque patterns decorate Prada and John Richmond outfits. Flower prints invade the D&G, Moschino Cheap&Chic and Antonio Marras collections. Etro reinvents '70s-style dresses with bordered silk foulard prints. Stripes and flowers are hot for Versus and Custo Barcelona. Gucci reinvents knitwear, showing some soft, hippy-chic modern armours; crochet dresses enliven Ferragamo's collection.

This time, not a lot of denim was shown. Frankie Morello opted for mixing light blue, faded denim items with silk and chiffon. Iceberg offered wrap-around denim dresses and skirts and a denim patchwork comfy anorak. Rocco Barocco opted for sexy tight-fitting, black denim capri 5-pockets, worn with a bustier and soft chiffon shirts.

Maria Cristina Pavarini

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