Adriano Goldschmied, François Girbaud and Isko's Fatih Konukoglu
29 May. 2011
DENIM BY PV: FOCUS ON SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONSParis-based tradeshow Denim by Premiere Vision (May 25-26) has just closed its doors. The event which focused on presenting denim fabric trends for f/w 2012/2013 was characterised by a positive work atmosphere, although the market is presently facing an overall stagnation in jeanswear consumption.
Most new products show a focus on sustainability and environmentally-friendly productive standards. Also a special debate whose title was "Rebel with a Cause" held on the first day of the fair focused on the jeanswear industry’s future aswell as most crucial environmental issues. Participants in the debate were: Adriano Goldschmied, Francois Girbaud, Neil Bell (fabric developer for Levi's), Lylian Richardiere (Temps de Cerises), Enrique Silla (Jeanologia), Marco Lucietti (Isko) and Alberto Candiani (TRC).
The trend section area presented each company’s product highlights and newest eco-friendly products. A special area was dedicated to the brand M+F Girbaud with a laser machine treating some denim products.
Among new developments, Isko presented a wide selection of goods produced according to eco-friendly standards - both 100% organic cotton denims and a series of denims made out of recycled jeans only, that were initially launched as a partnership with Nudie Jeans, as well as selvedge denims made of recycled jeans, too. “Not only sustainable products are significant in guaranteeing the market top quality and environmental produtcs, but also the whole certified productive process," commented Marco Lucietti, Marketing Manager Isko. “For this, we will soon present a special initiative at Bread & Butter together with a newborn jeans brand called Haikure. Thanks to special QR code labels attached to each garment of this Italian jeans brand by C&S, any consumer will be able to trace each garment's story - denim's origin, garment making and finishing process."
Moreover, Bossa presented their newest Re.Set denim family made of denim scraps grinded and then mixed with new cotton and often polyester in order to give the new fiber higher strength and resistance. The new fiber made of 50% recycled denim, 30% new organic cotton and 20% polyester can be used most differently for new jeans garments and for jersey products.
Cone Denim, returning to Denim By PV after two years absence, presented a new denim consisting of cotton and a fiber obtained from recyled PET previously used for plastic bottles that used to contain beer. The result is a blue denim with a brown shade - provided by the beer bottles.
Furthermore, Tavex offered a selection of denim made of cotton, elastane and bamboo (6%). Likewise, TRC focused on a series of alternative denims out of cotton (60%) and hemp (40%), denims made of recycled cotton as well as aged denim without water after they are brushed on the surface. Other denims are obtained with thicker yarn mixes that provide alternative irregular surface effects.
There are different directions taken by companies focusing on saving water and energy. Vicunha, together with chemical substance producer Garmond, offered denims that can be dyed at a temperature of 30° rather than the average 70°. This means that less water is needed and less energy is required for dyeing these denims.
Artistic Milliners, for instance, is a member of the BCI (Better Cotton Innovation) association. “BCI is an alternative to organic cotton," comments Omer Ahmed, owner of Artistic Milliners. “Organic cotton would be a great concept, though it means products are by 40% more expensive that fashion consumer are not ready to pay for." BCI is an international organization that through local division controls and certifies that cotton is grown by using more controlled quantities of water and pesticides (-50%) and avoiding excesses.“By now this type of cotton cultivation could cost more, but soon prices will be more controlled," continues Ahmed. “It is a more realistic approach to eco-minded topics."
Denim Valley by Tejidos Royo presented a series of new products like the E-One series of denims made of tencel and cotton and the Dry Goods selection of denims aged with laser treatments. The Spanish brand hosted a laser treating machine that can age denim without using water.
Amongst other new developments presented were Dualfix by Invista, special denims made of the lycra fiber and T-400 fibers twisted together and corespun covered with cotton. The result are denims that have a very high elasticity and more reduced growth.
Another similar development was presented by Cone Denim called SCene, which included stretch denims made with corespun polyester and spandex fiber coverd with cotton.
Other innovations shown were a new stretch Cordura denim and Duck Corduras, made according to the same technique and traditional ochre colors used by workwear manufacturers, though much more abrasion- and tear-resistant and stretching. Last but not least, ITV presented a special diagonal ribbed jersey that looks like denim, though it is stretch and can be used in sweats and jersey items.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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