Sandqvist at Scoop
24 Jan. 2014
Show report: Scoop International AW14
The seventh edition of Scoop International took place in London 19-21 January. For the second consecutive season, the event was split between two venues – the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea and the Phillips gallery in Victoria– to make space for some 400 premium contemporary brands across womenswear, accessories, footwear and lifestyle products. Names such as Plein Sud, Rebecca Taylor, Jamin Puech and Goat dominate the line-up but a smattering of young labels and denim brands also form part of the exhibitors list; Denham and Levi’s two lines– Vintage Clothing and Made & Crafted showed yet again, while Dr. Denim made its Scoop debut. Swedish accessories name Sandqvist also exhibited at the fair for the first time. “We decided to show Sandqvist’s latest women’s collection at Scoop and the response has been positive; the all-leather pieces have received particular attention. Exhibiting at Scoop feels like the right decision- the atmosphere is nice and the show certainly has character,” said Holly Giselle Hilden of Brand Progression agency, which represents Sandqvist.
Plenty of worthy footwear names took part this season. Cult London label F-Troupe added a welcome indie flavor to the crop with a range of quietly quirky styles, such as a polkadot pony-skin flats and a reworked Chelsea boot featuring an elastic panel across the top. Melissa introduced its second collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld– which feature elements of the designer’s personal style signatures – think sunglasses adornments, ties and those famous gloves the designer is never seen without. Meanwhile, Tracey Neuls had brought out two new bike shoe models, a boot and a heel, both of which feature a vertical reflective strip at the back of the shoe.
Scoop nurtures its image well and every detail is considered. Cheerful greeters clad in cobalt blue Gloverall duffle coats set the tone on arrival, while the art gallery milieu makes it a non-corporate, delightful show to visit. The format mimics that of a multibrand boutique, with brands and product categories arranged in no particular order. At the time of our visit on the first day, the event was rather quiet, but the exhibitors we spoke to seemed contented and so did the buyers. Said Pamela Shiffer, owner of London store Pamela Shiffer Boutique: “Scoop International is a must-visit show for me and has been since it opened in 2011. The show gives buyers the opportunity to view well-selected and edited collections that offer something fresh and unique. As all buyers are stretched for time during the buying season this show not only highlights some of the established brands, but it also showcases lesser known brands that otherwise might struggle to find a niche within this already crowded arena.
Emma Holmqvist Deacon
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