Pitti Uomo 83rd edition registers 4% more foreign buyers
11 Jan. 2013
Pitti Uomo registers +4% foreign buyersFor the first two and a half days, the 83rd edition of Pitti Uomo, the international trade show held in Florence between 8 and 11 January 2011 that is dedicated to menswear fashion anteprimas for f/w 2013/2014, registered a +4% increase of foreign visitors, that is over 7,000 people entered in the Fortezza da Basso.
Therefore, since the total number of January 2012 foreign visitors was 7,400 buyers, the show expects growth in relation to last year. The highest numbers were registered among buyers from Japan and Germany, the only country to register an increase. Also growing were visitors from China, Russia, USA, Turkey and Korea. UK remained stable, despite the overlapping with London Menswear Fashion week held between 7 and 9 January 2013. Significant results also came from Hong Kong, Taiwan, Mexico and Brazil, some African and Middle Eastern countries.
Italian retailers visiting the show were 5% less because of the economic difficulties and the overall transformation the national retail system is going through. The organization forecasts that Italian buyers can go beyond 13 thousand buyers. On the first day the halls were not crowded, but on the second day they were very busy and full of people. Despite the economic situation, the atmosphere pervading the show was very lively and optimistic. The third day was slightly quieter but remained busy.
Focusing on the jeanswear and sportswear segments, the market shows great attention to denim innovation, waxed hand effects and printed surfaces. Silhouettes remain generally skinny, even if some slight baggy effect is showing up, especially in the upper part of the trouser. Cooked wool tops and jackets are featuring heavily, as are laser cut and raw edges as an alternative to knitwear, or employed as outerwear and in this case treated for weatherproof performance. Gas presented a wide selection of cooked wool tops and jackets that focus on visible knitted elements and contrasts - in greys, blues and vivid yellows for men as well in bouclé variants and contrasting colours for women. They also presented a special package of Italian made jeans. Blauer and BPD also played with knitwear by doubling and layering their down jackets and outer jackets for innovative and sophisticated special effects.
Printed motives - often recalling Provence-inspired patterns and Paisley elements pervade many collections often inclined toward natural hues such as burgundy, rust, ochre and deep blue as seen at Nichol Judd, Roy Rogers upper sportswear sister collection, or Dockers. The US brand has also shown a series of its archive historical items as presented by historian Lynn Downey. The company also presented a very elaborate selection of trousers made with colourful corduroys often printed for different surface effects.
At Gerard Loft Meltin' Pot presented its new collection designed by Leopoldo Durante including KLSH, a redesigned collection playing with sophisticated silhouettes, soft glittery jeans for women as well as an Icon, a selection of products focused on the brand's key historical elements such as the yellow colour and the triangle graphic motive.
Roy Rogers presented its special collaboration with British footwear specialist Tricker's while presenting US college inspired collection, while Rifle, announcing the opening of a Rifle monobrand store in Milan by March 2013 also focused on college inspiration by presenting aged effect printed sweatshirts and strong contrasting blue-white denim.
Arct'eryx Veilance, a sophisticated highly innovative outerwear brand, presented a series of outer jackets that appear to be seamless, both on their inner and outer sides, thanks to special material employed, and unique thermosealing and thermotaping techniques, and invisible zippers and closures. Kenzo focused on an urban-futuristic collection including a series of jackets characterised by a dreamy camouflage variant that recalls cloud prints. Jospeh Abboud, focused on space-like sci-fi outfits, and were also presenting catwalk shows.
A special guest like Marc Newson attended the G-Star Art of RAW Gallery at Pitti and hosted an exclusive aperitif to mark the launch of his new book "Marc Newson Works". G-Star's newest Marc Newson capsule collection's highlights included a wool bomber jacket and peacoat with leather sleeves, and a denim in Japanese herringbone selvedge.
Other collaborations presented include a special collaboration between Onitsuka Tiger and Andrea Pompilio, which focuses on a mix between the rock and the surf world. Ben Sherman celebrated its 50th anniversary by presenting a special book that while going through the iconic British brand presenting an overview of some the British lifestyles that most characterised the evolution of menswear fashion and were also tied to the evolution of the brand such as the punk, teddy boy and the mod movements.
Closing their 30th anniversary celebration there was Wp Store that launched its book "30 years of Research in Style" while showing a totally redesigned and more sophisticated Woolrich woman collection.
Plus more and more events enlivened Florence nights. Most prestigious was Ermanno Scervino's fashion show inside the historical Sala dei 500, inside Palazzo Vecchio. The show was a tribute to the craftsmanship that goes into Italian tailor-made apparel, and focused on the innovative qualities that characterise the craft.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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