Denim by PV in Paris
03 Dec. 2012
Denim by PV Full of IdeasThe 11th edition of Denim by PV, which was held from November 28-29 and highlighted denim trends for spring/summer 2014, has just come to a close. Despite the ongoing economic crisis, the atmosphere at the Halle Freyssinet in Paris was lively and energetic and brimming with industry leaders and international visitors from the US and other non-European countries. Celebrities like Angelo Bruni, Lorenza Chiavarini, Adriano Goldschmied, Pierre Morisset and Piero Turk were in attendance while François Girbaud signed copies of his book "L'Autre Jean," released in time to accompany his newest exhibition - read more about Girbaud's anniversary exhibition here on sportswearnet.com.
Overall, the season’s new developments were characterized by in-depth research that went in a variety of directions, illustrating the market’s continued attempts to create new ideas that capture consumer attention in new ways.
Denim Loves Environment
With so many innovations in alternative dyeing and treating techniques, ecology is a key theme that many continue to highlight. Patented under the Wine-Tex Brand, ITV presented a special partnership with Invista and Eco-yaa in which they employed wine instead of indigo for dyeing, resulting in a completely sustainable process free of wastewater and pollutants. The outcome gave a wide range of colors (with more to be added in the future), from brilliant blue to black, purple and light brown, with no crocking and very high color stability, often even higher than that of denim.
US Denim opted to recycle the excess white yarns from its work remains in order to produce new denims that could later be printed or treated as usual. TRC Candiani launched N-Denim, which employs a new nitrogen-based dyeing technique that works to accelerate the process of color penetration while saving water, energy and chemicals. Cone Denim developed yet another dyeing process called Affinity, through which materials are pre-treated with a special cationic substance, giving them a positive magnetic charge that heightens the coloration process. Since almost no dye remains, the same water can then be reused for further dyeing processes.
Pastels and Stripes
Neons are out; pastels are in, and even more so when paired with pearly or slightly shiny effects as seen at Orta, Tavex and Bossa. Tavex, for example, launched its new Celain selection of neutrals ranging from white to skin-tones treated with a chalk-hand effect. Stripes were another hot topic, often reinterpreted and inspired by workwear. Berto transformed the idea by adding new agedness to Osh Kosh-inspired stripes while Orta reinvented workwear with thicker stripes and mélange effects as well as with colored herringbone shirting fabrics. Calik employed light-reflecting yarns on the inner face of shirting fabrics, designed to display small dots of light on the outer surface of the fabric when illuminated. Finally, Denim Valley by Tejidos Royo launched operated denims and shirting fabrics that use micro-cross to create lines and points on the fabric surface for a touch of modern authenticity.
new denim trends and innovative ideas at latest Denim by PV
A Soft-Touch Summer
Softness is another keyword this season. Mixes of Tencel, Modal and other cellulosic fibers that form new and comfy stretch denims are a must for spring/summer 2014. TRC Candiani presented a special mix of soft-touch fibers for its very stretchy denim offering. Meanwhile, Isko presented Bluegeox, a new collaboration with Geox that offers super-soft-touch jeans made with a special thermo-regulating denim, the yarns of which are carded with the same techniques employed for wool.
Isko also developed Smashed, a new technology through which fabrics appear brighter than usual and almost shiny. When treated with this special finish, materials look thinner and give the wearer a heightened sense of comfort. The company also presented a special new treatment that gives denim the same effect as natural fading from the sun. Last but not least, Denim Valley by Tejidos Royo launched yet another unique treatment that allows denim to easily adapt to each individual’s body shape before returning to its original silhouette after a simple ironing session.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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