Fogle at Scoop in London
12 Jul. 2012
TRADE SHOW REPORT: SCOOP SS13London tradeshow Scoop International (8-10 July) came to a close yesterday, and the fourth outing of the fair was undoubtedly a successful one. Its every facet was well executed, from the brand line-up to the little tea salon serving hot beverages in vintage china cups. The fact that it was held in the Saatchi Gallery–which has served as its home since the show first surfaced in February 2011- certainly added to its allure. Spread across three floor, the collections were showcased alongside the gallery’s current exhibition, Out of Focus: Photography3. (Before realising that the rails had been put up with the art still hanging on the walls, some visitors rightly wondered what had had possessed Filippa K to use a scruffy looking bearded man of respectable age for its SS13 ad campaign).
This season Scoop showcased 205 established and emerging names across apparel, footwear and accessories. The formula struck a nice balance between feminine prettiness and more directional sensibilities while it also catered to buyers looking for more casual offerings such as the cosy jersey collections of Velvet, the reversible jeans of Bleulab and the offbeat aesthetic of Levis Made and Crafted. To tap into the lifestyle culture from every angle, a number of art perfumery companies were also dotted around, including Avery, Andrée Putman and Six Scents. Karen Radley, founder of Scoop International, explained the thoughts behind the set-up: "The priority for us has always been to maintain quality design over quantity, which allows buyers to get access to mid to high end designers that will suit their customers' style. We also strive to curate an exhibition that places complementary collections and categories alongside each other, e.g. footwear besides eveningwear, or denim beside casualwear.”
Radley is an avid supporter of young talent; to promote the designers of tomorrow, she invited a crop of graduates from the Royal College of Art to show their wares. In addition, about ten young Belgian labels came together to form the so-called Belgian Pavilion- an initiative masterminded by Scoop and the Flanders Fashion Institute.
Scoop is still in its infancy, but there’s no doubt it will give its rival Pure- which will hold its SS13 edition 19-21 Aug.– a run for its money. How will the show develop in the future? Said Radley: “Even though the demand is increasing and applications rise, we will maintain our hand selection policy and only consider brands that fit the Scoop profile. Now that we have the Scoop formula just right for womenswear, the menswear offering will expand over the coming seasons.”
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