Show report Pure and Margin.
Show report Pure and Margin.
 

07 Aug. 2013

Show Report - Pure London and Margin SS14

Pure London (4-6 Aug) appeared like a different show compared to last season, when the summer Olympics inhibited visitor numbers and rendered the event somewhat anaemic. This season saw over 1000 brands taking part across contemporary womenswear, young fashion, lingerie, swimwear, childrenswear, footwear and accessories. The exhibitors we spoke to all stated that attendance had been steady and the atmosphere upbeat. Pepe Jeans, one of the few denim labels on show, reported that boyfriend cuts and bootleg styles had sold well, and that more orders than usual had been placed. "We've picked up plenty of new accounts this time,” said Zahida Parvez, Pepe Jeans Sales manager UK and Eire . “It's clear that denim is having a moment– UK buyers are looking out for jeans, which I believe is partly due to the attention Selfridges’ new Denim Studio has received.”

The general aesthetic of Spirit’s exhibitor line-up, which includes Sugarhill, Ruby Rocks and Miss Jolie, is ultra feminine and often dress based – but Pepe Jeans’s positive feedback might suggest that the fair is a viable platform for women’s denim brands, too. Next season, Pure London is set to refine its concept with the help of major investment from its parent company i2i Events; further details of the revamp will be unveiled over the coming months.


Vacant and Pretty Vacant at Pure Spirit.
Vacant and Pretty Vacant at Pure Spirit.
MARGIN

After several years at the Music Rooms in London's Mayfair, Margin (4-5 Aug) made the strategic move to Hilton Olympia, a stone's throw from Pure’s longstanding hub at the local exhibition centre. Margin’s new space occupied one floor and stretched across 4600 square feet, which is increase n increase of about 30% compared with the size of its former home. 65 brands took part, most of which were of the start-up or independent variety

In-house designed prints created a point of difference – OS Burgueses banana and fruit salad versions stood out from afar, while tee label Bundy & Webster's artist collaborations resulted in renderings such as clothed wild animals. Shropshire based streetwear label Thfkdlf’s strongest print depicted a mass of flowers that covered entire sections of a garment sometimes fading into nothing.

Japanese label Violette Room presented a covetable range of breezy cotton separates including frill boleros, relaxed cotton muslin trousers and bat sleeve day dresses. The name already has a following in Japan and opted to show at Margin in order to attract UK buyers, a quest that should be highly attainable. Portuguese sneaker brand Sanjo had a similar agenda. The heritage brand founded in 1934 is relatively unknown in the UK but intends to change that status with the help of its new organic and chemical-free footwear that is available in sizes ranging from toddler to fully grown man, and anything in between. On the accessories front, newbie Cut Out Girls impressed with a collection of distinctive bags and purses crafted from hand-knitted rope in soft but cheerful colours.

Cut Out Girls at Margin.
Cut Out Girls at Margin.
Bundy & Webster at Margin.
Bundy & Webster at Margin.
















Emma Holmqvist

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