Pitti Uomo, Florence, Italy
13 Jan. 2012
SLOW DEPARTURE FOR PITTI UOMOCold weather welcomed the opening of the Pitti Uomo fair in Florence, which focused on mens- and womenswear in anticipation for fall/winter 2012/13 from January 10-13. Opening day was somewhat slow, with the second gaining more visitors. Due to the difficult economic times, there were generally less Italian buyers in attendance. According to the show's organization about 8% less Italian buyers visited the show, although a definite figure is not yet available. However, over 7,700 foreign buyers from Germany, UK, France, Turkey, Japan, China, Korea, Russia, Northern and Eastern Europe and the United States are expected to have registered by the end of the show.
The significant presence of Japanese buyers was due in part to the special selection of Japanese designers in different pavilions (40 in total) and the new hosting section - Versus Tokyo. This pavilion presented some of most innovative ideas seen inside the show with new, highly creative brands that are strongly focused on research and creativity. Colored leather perfectos were reinterpreted with multi-stud application, shirts renovated with knitwear applications and nylon down-scarves printed with new geometric patterns or bandana-like motifs.
The fair put a lot of attention on bright colors and sharper research in terms of new materials and function. Bright orange, yellows, greens and reds were a must in outerwear and jackets shown by Woolrich, which presented its 100% high-density cotton fabrics that tighten when wet and keep water away. Additionally, the Henri Lloyd RWR nylon peacoat was reimagined in brighter hues and newer functional elements such as high-tech nylon, thermo-sealing and high-function detailing by Olmes Carretti, who invented the bestselling coat 27 years ago and now has reinterpreted it according to current consumer needs.
Many classic items were reinvented with a new image, such as Andrea Incontri's brand which redesigned the more modern versions of the classic green, grey or camel beige boxy coat into shorter jackets, often complete with drawstrings or longer backs and shorter fronts, while maintaining a clear identity.
A reedition of the best-selling Goggle Jacket model by C.P. Company was presented with a new antipollution mask, hideaway goggles and a special window for cell phone usage on the top left pocket. Dockers presented its Art of Khaki capsule collection which reinterpreted menswear classic items like fitted blazers, vests and chinos with tailor-made detailing.
Jeans were the protagonist of the show with revived historical brands such as Jesus Jeans, newly revamped by entrepreneur Marco Boglione, owner of Basic Net. Roy Rogers has inaugurated its new headquarters in Campi Bisenzio, near Florence - newly designed by Alberto del Biondi Side with a more modern product. Pepe Jeans focused on its new eco-friendly Tru Blue jeans as did Re-Ash, the specialized made-in Italy jeanswear brand. J Brand presented its men's jeans line, launched in the US in 2008 and ready to conquer Europe through Pitti Uomo with a variety of fits and a new series of finishes and materials.
New brands were also launched in this edition of Pitti. Edwin presented a new exclusive jeans brand, designed by Yohji Yamamoto that will be initially sold only in Europe by the Japanese jeans giant.
The company producing Dekker and Kejo launched a new women's total look brand called Secret Soul and the 10 East, a high-quality men and women's parka brand.
Jacob Cohen presented its new Massawa collection born from a collaboration between Nicola Bardelle, designer and owner, and designer Maurizio Zaupa, mixing colonial inspiration, tailor-made jeanswear elements and top quality materials such as Berber wools and pure, indigo dyed Zimbabwe cotton manufactured in Japan.
G-Star was hosted by Gerard Loft and presented some innovative developments in its 3D collection presented by head designer Pierre Morrisset. Meltin' Pot launched its new KLSH capsule collection focusing on new grey shades, denims with naps and lucid and matte finishing. Rifle presented its second collection at a show held in the heart of the city.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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