Milano Unica trend areas
19 Sep. 2011
SHOW REPORT: MILANO UNICA WITH CHANGES AHEADItalian textile fair, Milano Unica, (Sep, 13-15, 2011), has held its 13th edition with an optimistic outlook for the market, presenting its fabric forecasts for f/w 2012/2013. The trade show was visited by 21,400 buyers, 15% coming from abroad. The number of visitors has grown by 2% compared to the September 2010 edition. The show registered an increase in visitors from China (+30%), Hong Kong (+30%), South Korea (+51%), Japan (+21%), India (+18%), Brazil (+24%) and Russia (+60%). Also European countries registered quite good results in visitors with the United Kingdom (+26%), France (+13%) and Spain (+18%). Visitor numbers from Germany and the US were stable while the number of Italian visitors dropped by 5% despite the number of companies visiting remained unchanged.
President Pier Luigi Loro Piana announced that from 2012 on Silvio Albini, owner of shirting company Cotonificio Albini, will succeed him in his position, and starting next year Milano Unica will organize two new editions in China – one in March in Bejing and one in October in Shanghai – each one presenting about 60 manufacturers, though involving Italian and European manufacturers only.
Silvio Albini and Pier Luigi Loro Piana
The opening ceremony of the show featured Milan’s new mayor Giuliano Pisapia, Claudio Luti, CEO Kartell and President of the Milan Design Week, and Wang Qunbin, President and founder of Fosun, one of the most important industrial, financial and real estate enterprises of China.
The show took its course with busy halls and a lively atmosphere. This edition hosted 483 exhibitors, 11 more than in September 2010, which was already a sign of some slow improvement as are the first semester’s economic results of the Italian industry that registered a +3.2% turnover compared to the same period of 2011, a plus of 12% growth in export to Hong Kong and a plus of 22% to China.
"On Stage" fashion show
On the night of the opening, the “On Stage" event took place in the Navigli Area hosting a fashion show of ten selected upcoming designers and an audience of about 2,500 guests. On Wednesday, Li Edelkoort held a lecture focused on "Tomorrow's shopping" new trends.
Milano Unica’s main trends focused on greater research materials and accessories, 3-D effects, vibrant and lively hues and innovative treatments. Velvet specialist Pontoglio presented a series of velvets that looked like woolen Chanel-like fabrics, but instead were velvets printed with macro houndstooth and mélange woolen effects.
Botto Fila, specialized wool manufacturer, not only announced that CEO Alberto Bertoni has taken over all of the company’s quotas, after having restructured, brought it back to be in the black. Botto Fila’s new collection reinterprets woolen fabrics according to 3-D geometric surface effects, jacquard bright baroque motives – all of which are inspired by international fashion capitals.
Last but not least, Tavex presented its new Denim Couture range aimed at serving a Prêt-à-porter niche in jeanswear with clean and dark optics for slim and smart casual styles.
Woolmark presented a new tool for fabric apparel designers. “The Wool Lab” showed a series of trend books collecting the most interesting and inspiring woolen fabrics for the upcoming season. For f/w 2012/13, they presented about 1,000 fabric swatches together with inspiring photos. Any insider can ask for details regarding each fabric composition and manufacturer in order to employ it at its best.
Swarovski Elements crystal decors
Accessories continued to play a key role. Swarovski Elements launched a series of innovative applications and crystal decors specifically designed for decorating denim and streetwear-focused items. They also launched two new hues divided into different stone cuts, pearls and decors – Denim Blue (reminding of a classic indigo blue) and Crystal Antique Pink, a romantic and sophisticated dusty pink.
YKK focused on red details and strikes of light. They presented a new zipper with a red Swarovski drawer and a sporty waterproof zipper characterized by a black rubber and red brushed metal mix, plus black and yellow flashy details. Technology applied to fashion is popular since YKK launched rounded zippers for bags and leather accessories, a zipper decorated by two side silver threads and a new drawer carrying a hologram on its surface.
Labeling and packaging specialist, Cadica, presented a wide series of labels - most of them doing without the most widespread and distorted idea of vintage. They aim at creating clean aged effects through technology and innovative materials such as special papers and cardboards obtained by using 30% of cellulosic fibers and 70% of grinded and mixed recycled denim, recycled cotton, old shirting fabrics, old leather or cooked wool. Reca Group focused on a series of new metallic shades with shiny golden details and oxidized cooper effects also printed on treated leather labels.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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