Isko
Isko 'Up To Denim' presentation
 

02 Dec. 2011

SHOW REPORT: DENIM BY PREMIÈRE VISION

Animated halls, stable attendance and pensive faces characterised the recently closed edition of Denim by Première Vision, the fabric trade show and key get-together for the denim industry, which took place November 30 to December 1, 2011. However, with slowed down orders and sales, exhibitors could not deny the critical economic and financial situation in Europe and the USA.

On the occasion of the show, organizers have also announced the birth of Denim BY Premiere Vision Asia, a new Chinese edition of the trade fair, which will take place in Shanghai during the third week of October 2012. Although the show expects about 80 exhibitors for the venue (which would be as many as at the Paris-based event), companies seemed to hesitate and mostly answered the question of whether they were to exhibit in Shanghai with: "I am thinking about it, though haven't decided yet."

Next to the trade fair news, quite some new and inspiring products, ideas and collaborations were presented for s/s 2013. Companies seemed to agree on the perception that focussing on innovation and stimulating new ideas will help infusing new energy in the segment.

In a special installation, Isko presented a new eco-friendly capsule collection called 'Up To Denim', developed in partnership with premium jeans brand Dondup, jeans treating machine manufacturer Tonello, specialised finisher ItacLab and chemical substance producer Garmon. The companies presented three mini-series of denim garments made according to sustainable production techniques.

Bossa launched its new Glowing Whisper collection, a light reactive series of denim fabrics, which, according to how they are illuminated, may have a totally different look (for more on that collection, click here).

At the booth of Orta Anadolu, visitors could watch a craftsman weaving unique local fabrics by hand. This way, one gained insight into the company’s latest social initiative, where it provided craftsmen in Buldan, a village on the Aegean coast of Turkey, with own yarn dyed warps in order to support the local special weaving ability.
Orta Anadolu supports Buldan village
Orta Anadolu supports Buldan village


Main trends for the s/s 2013 season which crystallised at the trade show will be stretch, super-stretch, colored and coated denim qualities. Orta presented yarn-dyed sorbet colored denims and chambrays. Bossa offered indigo-dyed fabrics which were over-dyed with other colors and aged afterwards to let the indigo color re-appear. Vicunha opted for a series of lively colors with the most prevalent hue being lemon yellow. Tejidos Royo launched new inside-out effects and presented garments with a yellow inside and white outside. For their special finishes, they collaborated with Tintes Egara, a Spanish finisher.

Stretch was another hot topic for the s/s 2013 season. In addition to stretch for men, a new, highly-discussed topic, Isko presented its new 'Reform in Shape' series, presenting special, supersoft stretch fabrics that provide cleaner and sexier silhouettes. According to Hamit Yenici, Product Development Director at Isko, "this fabric provides the same effect as Photoshop. [...] Anyone's silhouette is enhanced – just as any girl would love to look like."
Meanwhile, Orta launched its 'Slow Fit', a series of 8 oz. warp and weft unwashed indigo yarns to be employed for very sleek and elegant women's outfits.
Lemon colored denim at Bossa
Lemon colored denim at Bossa


Workwear inspiration is an important topic for the market as well. Outstanding surface effects were for instance presented by Isko's Jeanos, an in-between mix of brown and neutral colored denims, intended to be used for new chino interpretations, and their Old Skool fabrics, characterised by nappy surfaces and yarn irregularities. Also TRC Candiani has presented a series of new denim fabrics, intended to inspire the chino world.
As resistant fabrics are to be seen as a must for the denim segment nowadays, Artistic Milliners launched a new Cordura Denim fabric collection based on a blend of cotton and Invista's T420 Nylon 6.6 staple fiber.

Sustainable, environmentally-friendly produced fabric continues to be an important topic for many companies. Denim Valley by Tejidos Royo presented 'Renascut', a selection of eco-friendly fabrics made of recycled fibers, blended with new cotton fibres, dyed and surface treated with a series of new rubber, carbon, brick dust, spices and herbs and painted effects. Tavex has launched 'Aquasave', a new family of fabrics, produced in a process which consumes up to 300,000 litres less water than a common one. Moreover, Cone Denim continued offering its series of eco-friendly denims made of recycled PET bottles. After using brown PET bottles for recycling a season ago, they have now been using green PET bottles and mixed the resulting fibres with cotton and polyester to produce denim fabrics having not only a pale green appearance but also a very green soul.
Maria Cristina Pavarini

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