Monochrome looks at Designers Remix
11 Aug. 2014
Review Copenhagen Trade Shows + Fashion Week SS15
Copenhagen Fashion Week came to an end last week with Gallery, the longest running of the three trade shows, finishing on Friday. As reported earlier, the uneven schedule of CIFF (Sun-Wed), Vision (Sun-Wed) and Gallery (Wed-Fri) was a major obstacle and much discussed topic for international visitors and caused the middle days Tuesday-Thursday to be the busiest at all shows. Some brands, including Fred Perry, Birkenstock or Bibi Chemnitz even ran booths at two of the shows.
Gallery once again scored with a fine selection of largely Scandinavian up-market / streetwear brands ranging from denim specialists such as Levi's Made & Crafted, Edwin or 7 for all Mankind across Copenhagen heroes like Wood Wood or Soulland to design-driven names like Henrik Vibskov or Stine Goya. However, a generally rising interest in CIFF is highly visible as CIFF has been doing a great job in continuing is repositioning process which started with the installment of more design-driven areas last season. This season’s portfolio reached from up-and-coming progressive designers in the Sleek (Each x Other, Freya Dalsjo, Maikel Tawadros) and Lab (Astrid Andersen, Peter Jensen, Ucon Acrobatics) areas, across more well-known names in the Urban hall (Converse, Elvine, Humör, Suit) to commercial brands (Blend She, Garcia Jeans, Object) in the Future Classics environment.
Meanwhile Vision, happy to be back at its old/new location in Oksnehallen, mainly showcased premium womenswear in a mix with streetwear brands Keds, Boxfresh or Roos and a selection of denim brands like K.O.I. and We Love Jeans. According to its seasonal motto #Wedobusiness, Vision was noticeable calmer than the other fairs but exhibitors like We love Jeans reported to have written a solid amount of orders at the show.
Sportswear items, here at Nasir Mazhar
THE menswear item: The polo shirt, the sports tricot
THE footwear style around: Adidas’ Adilette and Acne’s Adriana sneaker
THE general trend: Sportswear influences, think basketball shorts, track pants/suits, raglan shirts etc.
THE colors: Monochrome black or black-and-white looks, light blue, strong red
Marble prints, here: Just Junkies
Shows to be see: Han Kjobenhavn (masked male models walking in white water), Designers Remix (“milk maids” in the backyard of a bank building), Baum und Pferdgarten (sporty-chic)
Most spectacular show setting: Rooftop tennis court at Ganni
The It-crowd: The models and bloggers around Camille Charriere (Camille over the Rainbow), Pernille Teisbaek (Look de Pernille), Stephanie Gundelach (B56 store) and sisters Frederikke & Caroline Brasch
News from CIFF
- Three highlight collections: Rodebjer, Han Kjobenhavn, Ucon Acrobatics
- (New) labels to watch: Avec, Brandblack, Nasir Mazhar
- Showed more than 1,100 brands at CIFF, CIFF Showrooms and CIFF Shoes
- More than 150 new exhibitors (especially in the Sleek and Lab areas)
- Registered a slower Sun- and Monday with mainly Danish customers, however exhibitors “met some international buyers during those days (for instance from Seoul) and these ones really took their time and didn’t have to stress out”, Philipp Philipp Bree of bags brand PB0110
- Bestseller returned to CIFF with several brands including Vero Moda, Vila, Selected, Object, Junarose, Only & Sons
- Well received: The fashion exhibition “Let it Rock: the Look of Music. The Sound of Fashion” with pieces of Malcom McLaren and “Industrial by Nature” by Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh in CIFF’s Crystal Hall
- Kristian W Andersen, Fashion & Design Director at CIFF: “We want to stick to our Sunday-Wednesday routine at least for another season!"
News from Gallery
- Three highlight collections: Soulland, Won Hundred, Blood Brother
- (New) labels to watch: Kommon Universe, S’More, First of August
- Busy first day with 4,001 visitors (compared to 3,342 visitors on the first day in January 2014), slower Friday, registered 64% international visitors (61% in January)
- Started with a preview event on Tuesday night, hosting 55 Scandinavian brands and their head designers (most of which are also exhibitors at Gallery) who showcased 15 pieces of their spring/summer 2015 collection each
- Also hosted a preview of Gallery Studio plus several fashion shows in the Royal Academy of Music, right next to Forum, where Gallery CEO Christian Gregersen wants to expand activities for the next season
- Planned cooperation with ENK New York and Mode Shanghai where Gallery wants to bring 30-40 Scandinavian brands and a few fashion shows
- Now announced that the next edition of Gallery will take place in Forum from 28th January to 30th January for sure
- For the next season, Gregersen wants Gallery to become “100% virtual”, meaning that all 20,000 styles shown at Gallery shall be pack shot beforehand so that visitors can check them prior to their visit and place orders online afterwards. For the execution of this, Gallery will work together with fashion collective Miinto.com and plans to take pictures in photo studios in Oslo, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Berlin, Amsterdam and Madrid.
News from Vision
- Three highlight collections: Ready to Fish, Roos, We love Jeans
- Hosted around 130 brands
- Reported an increase of international visitors, especially from Japan
- Winner of the 20th edition of Vision’s talent competition Designer’s Nest: Andreas Eklof, The Swedish School of Design
- Trine Lindegaard, Brand & Sales Manager at Vision: “We want to go back to our roots and be a selective platform for upscale, mainly womenswear brands. We are very happy to be back in Oksnehallen and will stay here for next season.”
- Announced its next edition to be “in January”
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