Emporio Armani S/S 2010
Emporio Armani S/S 2010
 

26 Jun. 2009

OPTIMISM LIGHTS UP MILAN MEN’S SHOWS

Milan’s four-day men’s fashion week came to a close on Tuesday, offering 94 collections in 41 fashion shows, 35 presentations and 20 by-appointment showcases.

According to insiders, the Milan designer crop offered visitors a solid mix of research, innovation and optimism but also high-quality, commercial products. Most interesting was Zegna group’s younger line, Z Zegna, which closed the week. This collection, already presented in NY, debuted in Milan with its modern dandy attitude focusing on double jackets – one worn under the other and buttoned together - as well as innovative technical materials. Also interesting was Ermanno Scervino’s blazers made with raffia. Summery in appearance, fresh and comfy, this new fabric could bring a new evolution in menswear. Scervino also presented a series of shirts doubled with a second shirt. Layers are hot these days.

Designers also revived denim and jeanswear in lively ways. Giorgio Armani offered comfy dark denim five-pockets worn with easy blazers. D&G opted for super worn-out jeans and items covered with rivets and studs. Trussardi presented a patchwork of denims for its five-pockets, while Richmond mixed denim with blazers and soft pink or purple ultra-thin knitwear. Westwood preferred innovative baggy jeans worn with suspenders and unwashed sulphur blue reinterpreted western-style jackets. DSquared reinvented jeanswear in its own way, offering muscular young sexy campers and boy scouts wearing double strata shorts and jackets in denim, or canvas, often bearing checked cotton or colorful patches. Diesel presented its Black Gold collection presenting both workwear denim jackets with leather details, tuxedo jackets and denim items in three shades of black.

Wallace Faulds, the former men’s designer for John Galliano, made his debut for C.P. Company. The new collection focused on blue and seven different hue variants. Innovative technical materials for trenches and coats played an important part, but so too did relaxed fit trousers, including dark denim jeans, short and rolled up at ankles.
Energetic colors will also be key in s/s 2010 – either presented in lively color total looks or as fancy prints and patterns. “Men in red” will be hot as presented by Dirk Bikkemberg, Richmond, Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo, though orange, coral red and crimson also made a statement. Ethnic patterns enlivened chunky cotton Gucci knit tops. The whole Etro collection mostly focused on chromotherapy principles. Cotton trenches and coats, bermudas and shirts were decorated with splashes of color and South American ethnic small beads on back belts, backpockets and detailing. Colorful, worn-looking thin leather jackets were presented by Iceberg, which focused on tops carrying geometric patterns.

Going toward a more technological direction was Prada, offering shades of gray for functional fabrics and knits. White and black were mostly preferred by Jil Sander, while John Varvatos opted for a contemporary mix of matte and shiny materials, sheer black shirts, soft perforated lightweight knits, and functional nylons in blue, black and dark gray for urban mixes with splashes of contrasting color.

Trenches, bombers and blazers are worn with bermudas and scarves complete most different looks. Sandals and sneakers are out since the Milanese men seen in these days seems to prefer comfortable driver mocassins and shoes with strings – or without – in one or two color variants.

—Maria Cristina Pavarini

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