Prosperity Denim on Denim by Premiere Vision
24 May. 2013
Modernity and Creativity pervade an optimistic Denim by PVA positive atmosphere pervaded the latest edition of Denim by Premiere Vision which was held on 22 and 23 May 2013 in Halle Freyssinet, Paris. The show presented previews for f/w 2014/2015 and was attended by visitors from the jeans, denim and sportswear industry from all over the world. According to visitors and exhibitors the present state of the market sees the US and the Asian jeans industries running at full speed, while Europe continues to show difficulties and slow consumption rhythms.
Despite this contrasting market situation denim manufacturers never lose their faith and present their newest ideas and developments focusing on innovation - in terms of new weaves, fibres, mixes and finishing techniques.
Most significant trends include a return to blue-black as presented by Tejidos Royo, and to dark hues, as shown by Calik Denim with a selection of brown-blue denims.
Among some new hues there are a selection of changeable effect denims by Royo offered in purple, blue, greens that all shift to a darker hue and black. Tavex launched as part of its selection a new redbrick hue both available for ready for dye and yarn-dyed fabric variants.
Leathery hands continue to be popular, especially in conjunction with special finishes such as creased effects that bring out an even stronger and more aggressive character of the denim, as seen at Tejidos Royo and Isko. Added prints on the surface of the denim and super soft hands also featured heavily in the show.
Men's stretch is another hot topic for the season. Tavex is presenting a wide offer of nine different denims devised for the male consumer. Isko is focusing on a series of products that can appeal to men and provide great comfort as well as being rustic on the surface, as masculine fabrics have to be. Hellenic Fabrics is offering very versatile stretch fabric that combines women's need for higher elasticity products with men's need for lighter weight, though compact soft-hand fabrics.
Many denim mills have also focused on high-definition laser prints and have applied this technique to most different fibres mixes. Tencel and Promodal continue to be hot in the market since they have been utilised by 22 exhibitors, out of the total 90 exhibitors at the show. Especially new is the employment of cotton-Tencel and 100% Tencel for chambray shirts either presented in graduated variants or offered in patchworks of different fabrics in the same garment.
Abrasion resistant fibre Cordura is appreciated by many jeanswear brands. For instance Timberland is offering cotton-Cordura summer shorts and water-resistant cotton-Cordura jeans. Also new are the first Cordura-cotton-Lycra and T400Lycra jeans for women offered by Advance Denim.
Sustainability continues to be a topic many companies concentrate on. Prosperity Denim, Chinese denim manufacturer, presents its whole product offer, including those made with eco-friendly materials such as recycled polyester, BCI cotton and Tencel. Similarly US Denim is also presenting its denims made with recycled denim remnants ground and woven once more with new cotton. Clariant, chemical specialist, continues to offer a selection of dyes that produce the same effect of fading indigo and - more generically - chemical dyes, though less damaging for the environment. Clariant has also developed the special certification service "One Way" through which textile and apparel companies can be certified to show the market what level of pollution and its carbon dioxide emission levels. Cone Denim presents a special selection of denim employing flax fibre, a plant that can be grown with less water and consequently damage the environment less.
Denim continues to offer a selection of cosmetic and curing properties thanks to microcapsules added to the fabric releasing aloe vera, anti-cellulite treatments or moisturizing effects as presented by US Denim and Orta Denim. This last one has also released a series of smart denims that are water and soil resistant and also employ a special finish by Schoeller that is more eco-friendly than usual.
Vintage lives for ever. Orta, celebrating this year its 60th anniversary, has launched a vintage - though new - denim and chambray collection interpreted by different denim specialist with three different collections of garments. This is a general trend for the show - for instance, Tavex and Royo also presented a series of inspiring garments in order to offer designers and insider’s additional ideas in order to interpret their fabrics. Orta involved three designers: Denis Gussato, formerly designing for Calvin Klein Jeans, denim expert Claudio Toson and the LA-based store Denim Atelier. All of them interpreted denims their own way following a different and very personal artistic and inspiring approach.
As a provocation Cone Denim is presenting a series of very stiff denim trousers. Could that be setting a new trend in a market that is always looking for soft hand products? In the end fashion means change and some new "unexpected" turn could bring the market to the next step.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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