14 Jan. 2011
MORE FOREIGN VISITORS AT PITTI UOMOThe 79th edition of Pitti Uomo, held in Florence inside the Fortezza da Basso between Jan. 11-14, opened positively the new season, focusing on previews for f/w 2011/2012. At noon time of the event's third day, they registered an almost +9% increase of foreign buyers compared to the January 2010 edition, while Italian ones were stable. Among foreign countries, Germany and Japan were mostly represented with the same number of stores. France, Spain, Great Britain and Russia registered double digit increases as well as Southern Korea and Hong Kong. A very good attendance was also registered for Eastern and Northern Europe. In addition, Brazil and emerging markets showed significant growth. US buyers remained stable in terms of number of stores, though less in terms of people. China was also stable, as was India. Also, the Netherlands, Turkey, Belgium and Austria brought significant buyers.
In general, great research and innovation, often camouflaged under an aged, outlived and distressed patina, are characterising the new f/w 2011/2012 men's sportswear market. A general trend is invading the casual pant world. Jean and chino are actually experiencing a reciprocal "genetic" mutation, a sort of cross over. Dockers has launched "Slouch Tapered", a new fit that - despite maintaining chino pockets - fits like a five-pocket pair of trousers. Chino expert Mason’s presented a new selection of trousers cut like chinos, though made out of denim. “I was inspired by workers at airports who wear these kinds of pants," commented Mason's owner, Nicola Martini. Entrepreneur Alessandro Bastagli is launching Yulme's Tree, a new special project developed with Olmes Carretti, jersey expert and knitwear designer. The new line offers a special series of jersey five-pockets, tops and shirts where the garment is dyed or printed, super comfy and shows a unique image.
Focusing on workwear while celebrating its 50th anniversary, Edwin presented a limited edition series of authentic workwear items in denim and canvas. Levi's Made & Crafted reinvented traditional hunting and workwear items. Roy Rogers also focuses on workwear and rugged jeanswear, while launching a special bag made with selvaged Japanese denim and Tuscany cow greased leather detailing. Also sportswear focuses on old styles reinvented according to new technology and function. Woolrich presented a special capsule collection inspired by US antarctic expeditions, while Blauer reinvented US police uniforms made of a new Taslan multi-function nylon, and offers down jackets without sewings but simply inner thermo sealings. Crust mixes wool, nylon and cotton within the same down jacket. Museum presented another cross over model that reinterprets the field jacket in the form of a down jacket model made with the special Epic cotton, a water-repellent and breathable material also used by the US Army.
Motorcycling, one of the most loved sport, and an evergreen inspiring source in menswear, was reinvented by G-Star for its new Motor 5620 collection celebrating their 15th iconic G-Star Elwood model, originally born as an ergonomic jeans model modeled upon a motorcycle pant style. The new collection offers denim items inspired by the G-Star Elwood with ‘a V’ e un ‘96’ motive embroidered on the legs and arms. Barbour, known for its motorcycle jacket models, celebrated its 75th anniversary with the launch of the Barbour Steve McQueen™ Collection, a special edition series of jackets inspired by authentic Barbour pieces worn by Steve McQueen when riding motorcycles. The special celebration was held within a unique vernissage inside Florence WP Store, where also Steve McQueen’s son, Chad, was present: "I have some great memories of the Barbour jackets. They were always around, and I remember the way they smelled, the way they felt, and the weight of them.” Chad McQueen, a racing fan himself, remembers. "I do wear Barbour, and of course it’s because of the images of my dad on the Triumph. It’s such a cool image that will stay in my mind forever."
Also new was the return of Combo, the urban streetwear brand of the Fornari Group, that after a few years only sold through Combo Cove stores will now be sold through multibrand stores. The collection offers a series of clean items among which are superheavy 19-oz-denim jeans and green denim five-pockets. Vintage 55, also focusing on motorcycle styles, was recently acquired by the DGPA Capital fund, which is also behind brands such as Sundek, Twin-Set and Luciano Padovan. The collection will continue being designed by its founder, Davide De Giglio. Moreover, the historical down jacket brand Ciesse is back. The collection was bought by Fremil International group, part of a holding that will go public on the Frankfurt stock market exchange within March of 2011. The relaunch is going into two directions - a more sporty and functional one, and a more urban-minded one. In both cases, double-detachable jackets and deep know-how in the manufactuering of down jackets characterise the brand's new course.
Last but not least, Trussardi celebrated its 100th anniversary with a series of initiatives that started at Pitti Uomo. Within a unique fashion show inside the Stazione Loeopolda, they presented the collection Trussardi 1911 Uomo, designed by Milan Vukmirovic and 100% made out of leather. Paying a homage to its origins as a high-quality glove manufacturer, the menswear collection presented unique items like a t-shirt, western-style jackets and a dinner jacket - all of which are made out of supersoft leather. The Italian maison has chosen to celebrate its centennial by looking ahead, rather than remembering its past.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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