The boys of Super Duper Hats at Pitti
The boys of Super Duper Hats at Pitti
 

10 Jan. 2014

Impressions on Pitti Uomo 85


A slow start marked the beginning of this edition of Pitti Uomo, taking place from 7 - 10 January 2014. The quiet debut was to be guessed considering that London Fashion Week had started - as a prank - a day earlier on 6 January, many stores were just in the very beginning of the sales season and most of the insiders were just returning to work after their Christmas holidays break. Despite all this the offer of brands was wide, focused on top quality and high-level research.

The second day already presented much more crowded halls with insiders willing to meet and share ideas and opinions on the market’s situation.
Some debuts marked then new edition of the show featuring previews for F/W 2014/2015 (also see our previous report here).

The trend sees a confirmation of a generally classic style focusing on some classics such as fill jackets, parkas and a general British allure based upon micro-designs as seen at the new-born Atelier Scotch, blazers and trousers with pleats. Denim was a protagonist of the show with many companies featuring their denim collections. Among them for instance, G-Star presented a selection of its most iconic denim pieces also considering the company’s 25th anniversary and their celebration of their tenth year of collaboration with designer Marc Newson. Italian brand Antony Morato, participating in Pitti Uomo for the first time dedicated a whole section of its booth to its denim offer. Gas Jeans celebrated its 30th anniversary with a made in Italy capsule collection of denim total look outfits.

Superga sneaker presented at Pitti Uomo
Superga sneaker presented at Pitti Uomo
Leather and denim are core elements for the season with denim always looking more like leather - thanks to special treatments and coatings - and leather treated as if it was denim, that is over-dyed in different colours and then heavily stone washed. Lots of patches and applications complete tops and jackets. There were many new interpretations of sweatshirts and bomber jackets, often reinvented in laser-cut knitwear and cooked wool versions. Tailor-made inspiration and second-hand prints on tops are a must as seen at Roy Rogers. Levi’s Made & Crafted opted for denim items carrying macro-prints of period logos and advertising.

Among some of the various debuting brands there were the Made in Naples L(!)w Brand sportswear total look brand and the skiing gear and activewear brand Rossignol, launching a new line of down jackets for urban life.
Maria Cristina Pavarini

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