Denim by PV, Paris
29 Nov. 2013
Denim by PV bids adieu to Paris with successThe last edition of Denim by PV taking place in Paris has just closed its doors successfully.
The show was crowded with international visitors and had a positive and optimistic atmosphere. Much excitement was in the air – especially considering the show will soon move to Barcelona. Many insiders showed enthusiastic approval for the new location and the consequent change of atmosphere it will bring, the warmer climate, the positive vibe and the new energy anyone can pick from a change. According to other insiders Paris remains a more inspiring and international city to visit – as well as being more centrally located and easier reach for more countries – especially Northern European ones.
As a general trend, although exhibitors remain stable in terms of numbers, there is an increased presence of garment manufacturers, accessory and trimming producers and a slight decrease of denim manufacturers season on season. In fact, for this edition Cone Denim didn’t participate in the show. The company justified its absence because it overlapped with Thanksgiving celebrations happening in the US
There was a lot of innovation in the denim collection previews for S/S 2015. The show presented a general return to vintage inspiration and a come-back of authenticity most often presented through a selection of dusty and sun-bleached blues and visible blue-white contrasts. Most impressive was the great offer of special surface effects – either obtained through laser geometric micro and macro designs and tattoo-effect patterns either obtained through contrasting colour patch applications, or printed or woven jacquard effects. Calik Denim launched a series of shibori techniques applied onto denim, presented live during the show, and adapted to be reproduced on industrial scale. Textil Santanderina bet significantly on prints – brightly coloured as well as basic ones applied onto its fabrics. Dynamo Denim opted for prints and laser effects applied onto denim and indigo jersey.
Deep blues, electric blues, dark blacks and a selection of greys, are the must have colours according to most companies. Bossa focused on deep black denim that doesn’t fade, as well on a selection of deep blues – in both cases they employ a coloured warp and weft for deep and long lasting denim shades. A variety of blues – from light blue to electric and oil blue are a real must according to Bossa and Orta. Orta, for instance, focused on a wide selection of blues inspired by one of its testimonials – athlete and record-holder diver Sahika Ercumen. From Beryllium to blueberry blues up to a selection of coated denim with chalk hand effects are part of their collection that are inspired by all of the shades of sea water. Isko has especially developed different shades of grey – a blue-shade, a red-shade and a neutral shade.
Among special developments Isko launched their Scratch ‘N’ Jeans that are made from special denim made with coated yarns. Once the yarns are woven the fabric can be scraped irregularly, as with any denim finish, such as stone-wash or laser finish, resulting in an unusual and uneven surface effect.
Tavex has also developed Twinic, a unique denim selection that according to different laundry treatment can fade toward three different tones – apricot, light blue and sand. The treatment can be applied on whole areas or on single details providing interesting contrasts and effects.
New fibre blends are also cool for the season. Lenzing and Invista announced their new partnership through which denim manufacturers can produce soft-hand high-recovery and super-stretch denims employing both Tencel and DualFX. Tejidos Royo presented its first result of the collaboration by launching the MeSu denim. Textil Santanderina launched its latest Fastcel softhand touch cotton – in the viscose family of fabrics- in both superlight and more regular shirting weights – that are as soft and fluid as silk, but they can be treated as denim for irregular indigo surfaces, printed or in plain colour – or in sophisticated pastel or bold hues. Also hot are Santanderina’s Tencel, cotton and linen blends applied to denim.
Stretch for men continues to be one of the hottest topics as presented by Tavex and Isko. Isko has developed its new selection of stretch for men that has an even more authentic aspect when compared with fabrics they have offered in past seasons. They have also developed an extra performance Reform fabric for women with extra stretch performance by adding 20% to 40% extra stretch-ability that guarantees stable recovery and high resistance to coatings. Also new is a lighter weight version of Isko’s Jogg Jeans Fabrics, Isko’s patented material has qualities from both denim and sweatshirt material. The new material launched for S/S 2015 is lightweight (ranges between 7oz - 10oz) is thinner, though highly soft touch and velvet-like.
A wide selection of accessories were also on show. Among the various specialists participating in the show was Labeltex. They launched a new selection of buttons and rivets for jeans that can be covered with most different leather types. While they can match other leather details, labels and tags, they can also to aged, coloured and personalised with logos according to each brand’s own spirit or specific capsule collection.
Maria Christina Pavarini
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