Busy hallways at Premium
14 Jan. 2014
Berlin trade shows: First day review
Bread & Butter: Business as usual
There is always talk before urbanwear trade show Bread & Butter kicks off every season. But this year, with the announced consumer days in July and another bunch of big exhibitors skipping the fair, talk has been on another record level. However, when entering the halls at Tempelhof today, business seemed to run just as usual.
In the central Urban Base, usual names like Adidas, Superdry or Pepe Jeans were to be searched in vain, but this paved the way for several newcomers to join in and close the gap.
Robert Theijssen, managing director, PME Legend: "This is the first time in 5 years that we are back at B&B. This booth is an important tool especially for our sales in Germany, Austria and Switzerland and we are getting a great feedback from our customers so far."
The lack of the former streetwear/sports halls on the left eases commuting (as the exhibition space is simply smaller) and saves the buyers some walking distance, but it blurs the hall segmentation a bit. The remaining streetwear players had to split up and found new homes at the far right handside in the L.O.C.K area (Herschel Supply) just as much as in the Urban Base (Reebok). Mikey Scott of Herschel: “So far, we are happy with the new location here in L.O.C.K., I just hope that everyone will make their way back here.”
For the exhibiting international brands, Bread & Butter still seems to be the right platform to reach their German-speaking consumers. Lello Caldarelli, owner, Antony Morato: “We have been participating in Bread & Butter for the last two years and we were always very happy because it helped us reaching all the best clients in Germany.” Andrea Sanchioni, CEO, Fornarina, was of a similar mindset: “B&B today is helping us reaching the German and Northern European countries, while for reaching other markets we have to act through different shows.” This speaks of a lack of internationality amongst the visitors. However, some reported differently. Daniel Ivarsson, Designer at Dr. Denim: “It is still very international with people from Spain, Scandinavia, Germany, Italy. The only customers that I am missing are the ones from Asia, like Korea or Japan.” Fortunately, trade show organizer Karl-Heinz Müller is planning to start a trade show as he revealed yesterday at the Bread & Butter opening party.
Fashion-wise, THE key-pieces for Fall/Winter 2014 seem to be bomber jackets and – after many seasons of print – checked shirts again.
If anything, things will stay exciting – with the upcoming July edition and its changed opening policy holding new challenges and questions for all possible exhibitors. Retailer Chris Belt of Open 32 (with 65 stores in The Netherlands): "I am very curious what will happen to the Bread & Butter, big brands have left in this edition. In my eyes the B&B has definitely a justified existence. I think it is the time for another big change.”
Let’s see what the next days will bring! Maria Hunstig + SI team
Premium - Black and busy
Outside at Premium
In general the trade show saw lively hallways and booths during the whole day. "We feel that the market is open for contemporary fashion in the sense of a merge between casual and formal wear. Only young fashion and formal wear are not enough any more. Retailers request a new style and are much more looking forward today instead of just repeating older behaviours," says Thorsten Link of Diesel. The Italian brand was again showing its high end Diesel Black Gold Line.
Not only Link noted Premium to be a platform for buyers to get inspiration and input. The retailers themselves confirmed the show's function: "Initially we came to Premium to only see something new and to inform ourselves, but spontaneously we also ordered a new knitwear collection," states Luitgard Reiter of the Reiter store in Ludwigsburg.
As exhibitors said simultaneously, the majority of visitors come from Germany. Nevertheless, a number of international retailers again found their way to Premium's location; The Station. One of them is Magda Van Acker from Nele store in the Belgium town of Hoeilaart. "Premium is very important for our trend research because it is scheduled so early in the season."
Panorama - Big and professional
"Send staff. We need help.“ Wardrobe and accreditation accounts were already busy before Panorama fair opened its doors today. Within minutes additional helping hands organized a quick boarding for the numerous visitors and shortly after nine the halls were full. The third Panorama fashion fair had a successful debut and presented itself as much bigger and more professional. The development of Panorama fashion is positive, all important players were seen on the first day, the concept is clear and every segment has its own world. “We have a lot of appointments, buyers are taking time and the speeches are professional,” confirmed ClaudiaHagedorn, KeenOn Fashion. The casual and jeanswearbrands in hall C were very happy: “Finally we have a real professional working fair, Panorama is our home and we are making good business contacts. Never before have I been so happy in Berlin. Panorama is the best fashion fair and has established itself.” Said Rainer Fokkens,Goodiez. The show will run until Thursday andapproximately 400 exhibitors are showing their new menswear, womenswear, shoes and accessories collections for Autumn/Winter 2014/15 on the fairground Berlin ExpoCenter Airport. The four halls are divided into the segments Young Urban Universe, Best Of Contemporary Fashion and Casual Creativity. In addition to the three classic halls A, B and C, which remain the heart of Panorama, the new entrance hall D called “The Mall” and a new area called “L´Hotel” were a hot spot for the visitors.
'Real People' at the Timezone booth
L´Hotel is situated in Hall A, and shows selectedwomenswear and menswear collections, shoes, accessories and jewellery – staged in the style of a deluxe hotel lobby. In front of L´Hotel was parked a luxury Mercedes limousine and a hostess welcomed the visitors at the reception. Each collection has its own a suite as a closed off area. The area is decorated like an old Grand Hotel with opulent crystal lamps, solid leather furniture, old cases, antique wardrobes and a comfortable hotel bar. Jörg Wichmann: “With its spacious lobby including bar, the area is the perfect setting for open presentations with the focus on the products offered.” In the proven Casual Creativity hall C exhibitors and visitors were in a very good mood. “It is a long time since I have seen so many people in the aisles,” said Carsten Busche of Artshoes. The whole day was busy. “We had more frequency and more visitors than last time,” confirmed FrankSchäfer of Mod Diem. Exhibitors surprised visitors with nice ideas. Garcia invited for a dolce vita with Italianfood. Camp David invited in the new function-wear lifestyle world. Timezone has a Bavarian brass band on the booth and models are showing the new collection. “We are on a solid basis, now we have to show our brand profile,” said Wolfgang Endler, Timezone. After the great debut most brands are sure that Panorama will continuesuccessfully during the next days. For the next edition in summer Panorama will surprise again. Some exhibitorsmentioned that the fair organisation plans to move to the Berlin fairground into the city. Panorama fair has notyet confirmed this, but the idea sounds good. Lisa Dartmann
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