Gabriella Massey and judges
07 Jun. 2010
BRIGHT FINISH FOR DENIM BY PVA positive atmosphere pervaded the most recent edition of Denim by PV, the Paris denim show, which took place from June 3-4 for the first time in the more central location of Halle Freyssinet. About 70 exhibitors converged on the naturally-lit premises, the site of many a catwalk show in the past year, that at over 7,000 sq. meters created a strong impact on visitors than in seasons past.
Visitors were welcomed with a new event on the first day of the show: the Future Denim Designers Award. The ceremony, held in conjunction with the London design school Central Saint Martin’s, honored the upcoming designer in denim, Gabriella Massey. Massey was one of six finalists in their final year of the school’s menswear degree course. Members of the jury which chose her included Adriano Goldschmied, Francois Girbaud, TRC’s Alberto Candiani, Isko’s Fatih Konukoglu, Martelli’s Giovanni Petrin, Levi’s Neil Bell, Premiere Vision’s Pascaline Wilhelm, Pepe Jeans’ Trevor Harrison and Rad Rags’ Umberto Brocchetto.
As mood-lifting DJ sets and live music by Okinawa and TRC boots pumped through the grounds, exhibitors themselves lent a positive outlook for the industry with new, soft-to-the-touch and drapy fabrics created from various fibers including cupro, viscose, Lyocell and other cellulosic fibers, such as those by Isko and ITV. Ultra-dense and high-density fabrics were offered by ISKO with a record 21-oz denim fabric, while Vicunha focused on 13-3/4 oz denims and Italdenim a 9-oz, high-density, albeit super lightweight denim. Shiny denim and coatings also brought new attention to smart, clean fabrics such as those offered by Hellenic Fabrics and Tavex.
Eco-mindful fabrics continue to be a major trend. The Korean company Ecoyaa, for example, has developed an organic dyeing substance obtained from wine, while many other companies, including Bossa, Kuroki, Kurabo and Denim Valley by Rojo, presented fabrics made from recycled denim scraps.
Stretch is another increasingly important aspect, as explained by Invista’s Global Marketing Director Bottoms, Jeans Hegedeus. The fiber brand continues to expand its offerings of stretch options, with its Super Stretch, SuperRecovery and Super Comfort fabrics. Thanks to its T-400 fiber, denims can now have up to 30-50% elasticity levels (Super Stretch). The use of T-400 fibers also produces denims with high-recovery properties (Super Recovery) and the use of XFIT Lycra enables denims to stretch easily in all directions. Invista’s new Cordura cotton denims, meanwhile, offer a higher abrasion and resistant option.
Gap Guuneydogu Tekstil has developed N-face denim, a special denim that can be used on both sides, and each side of the fabric can come in a different color.
Isko, participating in Denim by PV for the first time, unveiled all its newest fabric developments including Jeather, a leather-like stretch denim, as well as a series of new interpretations of selvedge denim with special coatings and innovative blue shades.
Some denim mills are also moving in different directions in addition to weaving. Hellenic Fabrics, for instance, signed an agreement with Crescent CBL, part of the Pakistani Bahumann Group. The agreement was signed with the intention of also launching the production of jeans through that company’s own facilities. At present Crescent’s productive capacity is 9 million items per year. Following the deal it could produce 15 million and soon perhaps up to 30 million garments each year. The new partnership will be effective as of July.
Meanwhile, fabric manufacturer ITV, which already produces about 1 million denim garments each year from its own Southern Italy headquarters, has opened a own second garment manufacturing facility in Tunisia. Its productive capacity is 4 million items per year.
Maria Cristina Pavarini
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