Karl-Heinz Müller changed his mind: no public days for BBB
27 Feb. 2014
B&B update: What does the industry think?After Bread & Butter canceled the public days, we wanted to know from the industry: What is your opinion on that?
Reinhard E. Döpfer, Chairman of the European Fashion & Textile Export Council:
"It would have marked the beginning of the end. I really think that you can only be happy about this news. If this had been normal, than there would have been a chain reaction and other fairs would have adapted it. But what added value would there be? As a brand you have to think about the additional costs like hotel, booth etc. I think this is unbearable and I am glad that there will be no public days at B&B."
Simon Giuliani, marketing manager, TRC Candiani:
“Bread&Butter's recent announcement about a further change in the planning of the upcoming edition was for sure quite surprising. The first thought that crossed my mind is obviously that the people at the BBB must be helplessly confused about their future.
But going beyond the crust I see the opposit: a man and his team who are brave enough to question their decisions in a market that is changing so rapidly that nobody can predict the future anymore. What was red yesterday might be yellow tomorrow and therefore I see an evolved ability to adapt, or better, the tenacious will to find the perfect formula for tomorrow; and in order to achieve that the man is ready to pillory himself: the success of the show is more important than the image-threatening headlines in the news. Doing a better trade show, isn't that the research for a better quality, a value that we are all looking for? To sum it all up, in a fast-changing world like ours I believe that ‘doers’ who are ready to take a few hits have far more chances to make it than ‘waiters’.”
Angelo Bruni, designer:
“B&B has often changed its strategy recently. On the one side, a retailer that was not invited has to pay for €500. And on the other, the salon looks half empty. I think that in fashion one cannot take a rule and follow it no matter what happens. Being too rigid cannot help anyone. Because of closing doors so strictly, the show has lost many exhibitors and has to find a way to bring back exhibitors and visitors.”
Mario Bonamigo, Sear’s, Bassano del Grappa:
“When I first heard about B&B opening its doors to consumers I thought that decision was nuts. Thinking more about it it I thought it could have been a nice opportunity to bring an evolution for the show, to make it evolve from a general static situation. Generally trade shows all look the same. B&B has always looked for a change since from its birth: it was born in Cologne, then moved to berlin, then Barcelona and then back to Berlin. You can say everything about it but not that all this is stupid.”
Jeff Marshall, marketing director, Third & Army:
“It’s not surprising that the concept was scrapped. We as brands have a different customer (the retailer) that we’re engaging with at this show platform. With that said we're ahead of the market showing our concepts, products and campaigns that are a season ahead, for us as an American brand we definitely don’t want to let the cat out of the bag… just yet!”
Roberto Ventura, owner, DenStore:
“At present brands are facing problems. During the last editions of Bread&Butter many important brands were missing and we have spent much time looking around at other shows making our research. For instance, at Seek we often find great ideas and novelties which fit well our identity and thirst for novelties. Although it is difficult finding other European shows that are as international and inspiring as what can be found in Berlin. I think that BBB can become again an attraction if important brands will return and exhibit there.”
Manlio Massa, managing director, Antony Morato:
“The show has taken a step behind. Despite all this, I trust Karl-Heinz Müller. He has genius ideas. I thought this idea might have been a winning one and might have brought some interesting result. Almost every trade show also includes a day open to the public and this new initiative was interesting. Perhaps a 25€ entrance ticket might have been too much for consumers – apart if they should have received something really special back such as, for instance, a concert by the Coldplay. Although the real problem is that fashion insiders are afraid of innovation and change and probably they feared about showing their collection to normal people for the fear of being copied. Though copiers are already around during regular shows!” Bread&Butter remains as a top quality show for image, concept, aesthetics and communication, while at the same time competitors are mushrooming and becoming more important. Panorama, for instance, will move in a much more central location for the July edition."
Markus Finke, New Era Country Manager GAS:
"We are happy that the consumer day will not be realised. A consumer day doesn´t bring us a benefit because the costs and the energy expenses are too high. The mix of brands on Bread & Butter is very big. It seems for us impossible to bring the right mix of consumers to the fair that justify the volume of work.”
Raffaello Napoleone, CEO, Pitti Immagine:
“Since from their first announcement how attitude was that to be curious because our apporach to a trade show cannot be the same as one addressing to the wide public. Showing consumers collections that are not yet sold in stores could confuse them. Moreover the rules and philosophy that guide these two types of events are different and not compatible with each other. B&B has always beeing very dynamic for how they constantly developed their different concepts. First they toured through diferent cities, then wanted to also focus on kidswear and then wanted to address different targets of users. Our approach is different. We want to be coherent and informative. Our aim is to offer a service to insiders coherently. We want people to know that when they come to Florence they can find novelties and new trends. We have been following this philosophy since years. For instance, we present new designers through our New Biz section and our Who’s On Next selection of new talents. Rather than exporting our concept through satellite trade shows to other cities we rather promote cultural events such as a recent one we presented in Moscow at CPM and soon will present a new initiative in Corea.”
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