Karl-Heinz Müller changed his mind: no public days for BBB
Karl-Heinz Müller changed his mind: no public days for BBB
 

27 Feb. 2014

B&B update: What does the industry think?

After Bread & Butter canceled the public days, we wanted to know from the industry: What is your opinion on that?

Reinhard E. Döpfer, Chairman of the European Fashion & Textile Export Council:

"It would have marked the beginning of the end. I really think that you can only be happy about this news. If this had been normal, than there would have been a chain reaction and other fairs would have adapted it. But what added value would there be? As a brand you have to think about the additional costs like hotel, booth etc. I think this is unbearable and I am glad that there will be no public days at B&B."


Dietmar Axt, CEO, Mustang:
"It is a great pity. We at the Mustang Group are open towards the introduction of a consumer day and we still welcome the step. But we have to accept the decision and we will follow Karl-Heinz Müller. The opposition in the branch against a consumer day was too big. Most of the brands are not ready for this step. Maybe it was too early. But we have to get the awareness of the consumer. The high costs for two additional days scared away many brands. However, Mustang Group will still prepare the next fair – without consumers." 

Simon Giuliani, marketing manager, TRC Candiani:
“Bread&Butter's recent announcement about a further change in the planning of the upcoming edition was for sure quite surprising. The first thought that crossed my mind is obviously that the people at the BBB must be helplessly confused about their future.
But going beyond the crust I see the opposit: a man and his team who are brave enough to question their decisions in a market that is changing so rapidly that nobody can predict the future anymore. What was red yesterday might be yellow tomorrow and therefore I see an evolved ability to adapt, or better, the tenacious will to find the perfect formula for tomorrow; and in order to achieve that the man is ready to pillory himself: the success of the show is more important than the image-threatening headlines in the news. Doing a better trade show, isn't that the research for a better quality, a value that we are all looking for? To sum it all up, in a fast-changing world like ours I believe that ‘doers’ who are ready to take a few hits have far more chances to make it than ‘waiters’.”


Deepak Gayadin, co-founder, Empire & Branch:
“A trade show is by definition an industry environment and so best business-to-business. We as an industry are building strong relationships that generate a superior market experience for our brand fans. Bread & Butter, now as an exclusive industry show, will allow exhibitors to achieve commerce excellence while at the same time creating the necessary public intrigue that drives emotional brand pursuit. To exhibit our collections in advance not only weakens retail desirability but worse, lessens the impact of innovation.”

Angelo Bruni, designer:
“B&B has often changed its strategy recently. On the one side, a retailer that was not invited has to pay for €500. And on the other, the salon looks half empty. I think that in fashion one cannot take a rule and follow it no matter what happens. Being too rigid cannot help anyone. Because of closing doors so strictly, the show has lost many exhibitors and has to find a way to bring back exhibitors and visitors.”

Mario Bonamigo, Sear’s, Bassano del Grappa:
“When I first heard about B&B opening its doors to consumers I thought that decision was nuts. Thinking more about it it I thought it could have been a nice opportunity to bring an evolution for the show, to make it evolve from a general static situation. Generally trade shows all look the same. B&B has always looked for a change since from its birth: it was born in Cologne, then moved to berlin, then Barcelona and then back to Berlin. You can say everything about it but not that all this is stupid.”

Jeff Marshall, marketing director, Third & Army:

“It’s not surprising that the concept was scrapped. We as brands have a different customer (the retailer) that we’re engaging with at this show platform. With that said we're ahead of the market showing our concepts, products and campaigns that are a season ahead, for us as an American brand we definitely don’t want to let the cat out of the bag… just yet!”


Panos Sofianos, creative director, Tejidos Royo:
“I think that the idea to open to consumers was great and it could have been inspiring for everyone. Also important is the fact that the market is suffering and for this it is facing an overall change. I think that brands didn’t embrace the new concept mostly for costs reasons. In fact, they cannot afford to pay for five days of permanence inside this container. On the other side consumers are no longer brand-loyal and can see already all the collections they want by visiting e-commerce websites. Bread & Butter remains as a top quality show for image, concept, aesthetics and communication, while at the same time competitors are mushrooming and becoming more important. Panorama, for instance, will move in a much more central location for the July edition. BBB is still the leader in this sector, but being a leader also makes you vulnerable - too old to rock, too young to die. For this I think that BBB has to reorganize itself and reschedule its concept with some new idea that can attract the audience more than its competitors. For instance, it could run for three days and open to the public on the third day by, for instance, inviting salespeople of chainstores and department stores. It is important they involve key people in our sector.”

Roberto Ventura, owner, DenStore:
“At present brands are facing problems. During the last editions of Bread&Butter many important brands were missing and we have spent much time looking around at other shows making our research. For instance, at Seek we often find great ideas and novelties which fit well our identity and thirst for novelties. Although it is difficult finding other European shows that are as international and inspiring as what can be found in Berlin. I think that BBB can become again an attraction if important brands will return and exhibit there.”


Marco Lucietti, marketing director Sanko/Isko:
“Adding the days for the consumers audience immediately appeared a risk. From my point of view, it would have been more fruitful for BBB to prize the production value chain target instead of venturing in the consumers arena, since this isn't a direction the show's exhibitors are willing to take through BBB. Now, the sector is looking forward to a more powerful ‘trade comeback’ of the show.”

Manlio Massa, managing director, Antony Morato:

“The show has taken a step behind. Despite all this, I trust Karl-Heinz Müller. He has genius ideas. I thought this idea might have been a winning one and might have brought some interesting result. Almost every trade show also includes a day open to the public and this new initiative was interesting. Perhaps a 25€ entrance ticket might have been too much for consumers – apart if they should have received something really special back such as, for instance, a concert by the Coldplay. Although the real problem is that fashion insiders are afraid of innovation and change and probably they feared about showing their collection to normal people for the fear of being copied. Though copiers are already around during regular shows!” Bread&Butter remains as a top quality show for image, concept, aesthetics and communication, while at the same time competitors are mushrooming and becoming more important. Panorama, for instance, will move in a much more central location for the July edition."


Stefan Miljanic, owner/designer, Gilded Age:
“I think it was an interesting idea to open the show to general public, but in practice it may have been more difficult to pull it off. B&B is an amazing trade show and quite busy with the trade, press and the buyers for all three days. Perhaps a small and separate wing at the show opened to the general public where the show organizers could present an outfit or an item from each exhibitor could be a one way to involve general public if that is an objective. Curated as a museum exhibition could be one way to do it.”

Markus Finke, New Era Country Manager GAS:
"We are happy that the consumer day will not be realised.  A consumer day doesn´t bring us a benefit because the costs and the energy expenses are too high. The mix of brands on Bread & Butter is very big. It seems for us impossible to bring the right mix of consumers to the fair that justify the volume of work.”

Raffaello Napoleone, CEO, Pitti Immagine:

“Since from their first announcement how attitude was that to be curious because our apporach to a trade show cannot be the same as one addressing to the wide public. Showing consumers collections that are not yet sold in stores could confuse them. Moreover the rules and philosophy that guide these two types of events are different and not compatible with each other. B&B has always beeing very dynamic for how they constantly developed their different concepts. First they toured through diferent cities, then wanted to also focus on kidswear and then wanted to address different targets of users. Our approach is different. We want to be coherent and informative. Our aim is to offer a service to insiders coherently. We want people to know that when they come to Florence they can find novelties and new trends. We have been following this philosophy since years. For instance, we present new designers through our New Biz section and our Who’s On Next selection of new talents. Rather than exporting our concept through satellite trade shows to other cities we rather promote cultural events such as a recent one we presented in Moscow at CPM and soon will present a new initiative in Corea.”
SI Team

Comments [1]

On 27.02.2014 at 19:28 Silvia Herrera wrote:

I'm agree

I think that ILLUSION, SURPRISE and INNOVATION are some of the most important things in order to improve our store season by season.

If "the treasure" was been discovered, the customer illusion would fly so far away and our money TOO.

I agree PROFESSIONAL TRADE FAIRS MUST BE ONLY FOR PROFESSIONALS.

MARPORMEDIO LIFEWEAR
Valladolid. Spain.

 

Comments reflect the opinion of their author, not sportswearnet.com. All comments are moderated, may be edited for clarity and length and will be posted if they are on-topic and neither abusive nor offensive.

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